WINDING THROUGH TOPANGA
The route: Pacific Coast Highway to California 27, a.k.a. Topanga Canyon Boulevard or “The Boulevard,” as residents call it, to U.S. 101. Miles: About 13 miles one way
Best time: Spring for the wildflowers — natives such as purple lupine, towering white blooms of chaparral yucca, orange California poppies and yellow (non-native) mustard — along the roadside. In Topanga State Park (www.lat.ms/
topangastatepark), you’ll find more variety. Rainy winter days bring a misty moodiness and cliffside waterfalls along the S curves. The rest of the year, you’ll see typical chaparral shades of green and gold. Why: It’s California’s newest State
Scenic Highway from Mile 1 to Mile 3.5. Slow down to get a visual geology and biology lesson of the Santa Monica Mountains. Enjoy driving under a canopy of oaks and sycamores through a winding slice of country. One Times writer counted 85 curves from the Mulholland Drive intersection in Woodland Hills to the ocean.
Highlights: As you ascend north into the mountains, look to the right between mile posts 2.25 and 2.5. Vertical rock formations and cliffs show ribbons of tectonic thrust from millions of years ago. (There’s a one-car pullout at Mile 2.5 to get a closer look.) Topanga is an artsy community. As you navigate the curves, look for the painted Buddha and the drive-by Great Wall of Topanga sculptures and murals on the right. Just before you descend out of the canyon, turn right into the Top of
the Santa Susana Mountains to the north and the San Gabriel range to the northeast. Stop at sunset to watch the valley’s lights twinkle on. Memorable stay: Topanga Canyon Inn B&B (www.topanga canyoninn.com) has eight wellfurnished rooms ($200 to $300 a night), with shared kitchens and living rooms, in two buildings. The property sits at the end of a rutted road that leads to a quiet, wild edge of Topanga State Park. Memorable meal: Topanga Living Cafe (www.topangalivingcafe
.com) is a combo café and store. Dine in for breakfast or lunch, or pick up vegetarian edibles for a Topanga State Park picnic. For dinner, try the Canyon Bistro and Wine Bar (canyonbistrotopanga
.com), a cozy space in the Village (about four miles from PCH) that
serves salads, gourmet burgers and entrees such as jidori chicken, rack of lamb and fish.
Tourist trap or treat: A treat, for sure, but pricey, with entrees from $22 to $44. Inn of the Seventh Ray
(www.innoftheseventhray.com )is a Topanga classic and ideal for a romantic splurge or celebration meal. You’ll dine beside Topanga Canyon Creek at tables set under fairy lights. It has an eclectic but fine wine list and serves inventive dishes such as stinging nettle chicken meatballs ($16) and eighthour black vinegar braised short ribs ($36). Before or after dinner, browse the spiritual selection at the Spiral Staircase shop next door. Plan to spend: A full day or even overnight to stop and savor all that Topanga has hidden in its curves.