TURN BACK TIME IN MENDOCINO
The route: Cloverdale, Calif., to Mendocino west through the Anderson Valley on California 128, then about eight miles north on U.S. Route 1. Miles: About 67 miles one way. Best time: Fall, for grape and apple harvests. Be wary of possible winter flooding near Navarro River Redwoods State Park (www.lat.ms/navarro park). Why: Scenic Mendocino hardly needs an introduction. Taking a detour to or through the nearby lesser-known Anderson Valley (www.andersonvalley.org) feels
like a trip back in time, with clusters of businesses in Boonville and Philo catering to tourists frequenting the wineries.
Highlights: The Anderson Valley was apple country decades ago, and vestiges remain in the form of farm stands and scattered orchards. But it’s mostly vineyards now, and wines are the big draw, from robust Pinot Noirs to Alsatian-style wines such as dry Gewurtztraminer, sweet Riesling and bold Pinot Gris. The Phillips Hill (www.phillipshill.com) tasting room, set in a weathered appledryer building in an orchard northwest of Philo, recalls a bit of the old agricultural economy. Rolling hills abound with vines through the narrow valley, and you can experience nature up close with a walk through the Hendy Woods (www.lat.ms/
hendywoods) or Navarro River Redwoods state parks. The latter park is a virtual tunnel of redwoods for the last 11-mile stretch to the coast. Memorable stay: The Madrones
(www.themadrones.com) guest quarters in Philo include nine well-appointed rooms set amid a flowering garden and working farm. Three wine-tasting rooms hold court in the property’s main Mediterranean-style building. Memorable meal: The Bewildered Pig (www.bewilderedpig.com )in Philo is an unassuming overachiever from chef-owner Janelle Weaver, who relies on local sources and knows better than to put
much between you and your chanterelle mushrooms — just a dash of salt and garlic. On Thursdays — locals night — enjoy free corkage and modestly priced specials such as beef and barley stew. Tourist trap or treat: A certifiable treat. Take a walk around Penny Royal Farm (www.pennyroyal
farm.com) in Boonville, where the prized sheep and goats are the stars behind incredible cheeses, including the cream-cheesesmooth Laychee and Camembertstyle Velvet Sister.
Plan to spend: Just a couple of hours for the drive itself. But you will want to give the valley the better part of a day, at least, or overnight to sample wine and cheese and enjoy the views.