Los Angeles Times - - FOOD & DINING -

Wine direc­tor: Ryan Ib­sen Floor som­me­lier(s): Ib­sen, Brett Wat­son, Jake Malm­berg

Num­ber of wines on the list: Roughly 125 Num­ber of white/red: Cur­rently 65 red, 45 white and some rosé and fizzy stuff

Least ex­pen­sive: $45 Most ex­pen­sive: $750 Me­dian bot­tle price: $100 Per­cent­age of do­mes­tic/im­ported: 25/75 Num­ber of wines by the glass: 21

A pair­ing: Slow-roasted lamb neck with arugula, pick­led fen­nel, black sesame, dill and salsa

verde; paired with Caves Cooperatives de Don­nas 2016 Neb­bi­olo Rosato ‘Larmes du Par­adis’ Valle d’Aosta. “Many folks will see ‘roast’ and ‘lamb’ and move to­ward putting to­gether a hearty, rus­tic red wine pair­ing ex­pe­ri­ence. That would work if you re­moved all other ac­cou­ter­ments from the plate; the

salsa verde, the pick­led fen­nel, the dill, the arugula and the chile lemon vinai­grette are all at odds with 95% of red wines. And yet, un­der­neath all that, is a large piece of very slowly cooked lamb. The Don­nas rosato pro­vides a red wine-ish oomph to meet the lamb, yet all the fresh­ness and bright­ness that the re­main­ing in­gre­di­ents need.” Wine the chef has with din­ner: “Me­nashe of­ten has a grilled branzino at the end of ser­vice, cov­ered in fried herbs and ac­com­pa­nied with grilled lemon. I’ve given him a glass of Pi­gato or Ver­mentino (from Bis­son, Punta Crena, etc.) from Lig­uria. Some­thing that works in har­mony in terms of fla­vor, and con­nects ge­o­graph­i­cally.” Ad­vice for the ad­ven­tur­ous diner: “A com­plete Bestia ex­pe­ri­ence can be had with­out so much as a drop of red wine, or a heav­ily oaked white, or any­thing so as­sertive that it com­mands you, in­stead of you it. We try to use what we might call ‘big’ wine spar­ingly, pre­fer­ring a kind of slow build that al­lows for plenty of bright, sup­port­ing re­fresh­ment up front.”

Newspapers in English

Newspapers from USA

© PressReader. All rights reserved.