Preserved lemons

10 minutes, plus 30 days ripening time. Makes 10 preserved lemons

10 lemons 1⁄2 cup salt, more if desired 2 cinnamon stick 6 cloves 10 to 12 coriander seeds 6 to 8 black peppercorns 2 bay leaves Freshly squeezed lemon juice, if necessary 1. If you wish to soften the peel, soak the lemons in lukewarm water for 3 days, changing the water daily.

2. Quarter the lemons from the top to within 1/2 inch of the bottom, sprinkle salt on the exposed flesh, then reshape the fruit.

3. Place 1 tablespoon of salt on the bottom of a sterile 1-quart mason jar. Pack in the lemons and push them down, adding more salt, and the optional spices between layers. Press the lemons down to release their juices and to make room for the remaining lemons. (If the juice released from the squashed fruit does not cover them, add freshly squeezed lemon juice — not chemically produced lemon juice and not water.) Leave some air space before sealing the jar.

4. Set the lemons aside to ripen in a warm place, shaking the jar each day to distribute the salt and juice. Ripen for 30 days.

5. To use, rinse the lemons, as needed, under running water, removing and discarding the pulp, if desired — and there is no need to refrigerate after opening. Preserved lemons will keep up to a year, and the pickling juice can be used two or three times over the course of a year.

Note: Adapted from a recipe in "Couscous and other Good Food from Morocco" by Paula Wolfert.