Freedman’s
This is a modern deli, dreamed up by siblings Jonah and Amanda Freedman, who are from Canada. They were struck by inspiration while sitting at Langer’s two years ago. “How cool would it be if this was open until 10 p.m. and you could have a martini and good music?” asked Jonah. So the two opened their own deli, in an Echo Park strip mall, and developed a menu of reimagined grandma deli classics with the help of chef Liz Johnson, who has since left the deli. They introduced a full craft cocktail menu as well.
Behind the counter: Freedman’s cures and smokes its own meats in house, smokes its own salmon and sturgeon, and cures its own sea trout. The deli also makes what Jonah dubs his own version of a Toronto-style bagel, that’s a cross between a smaller Toronto bagel and a hulky, chewy New York-style bagel. The rye bread and the challah come from Diamond Bakery.
Order this: It would be smart to order everything mentioned in Gold’s review (lat.ms/goldfreedmans). But if you have to narrow it down ( just a little), don’t miss the brisket, carved tableside and served with smoked bone marrow and “pommes Freedman” (ultra crisp tater tots on steroids). The Reuben is an excellent version of the classic sandwich, layered onto crisp rye bread that has been properly buttered. You can sample all of the smoked and cured fish on the fish plate. And if you’re there for lunch or brunch, the fried green tomato sandwich on a bagel slathered with smoked Hatch chile cream cheese will make you wonder why no one thought of this combination before, and why smoked Hatch chile cream cheese isn’t served on more things.
Info: 2619 Sunset Blvd., Los Angeles, (213) 568-3754, freedmansla.com.