Los Angeles Times

Rising in the East

Taiwan melds history, local ingredient­s for a cuisine all its own

- —JOE YOGERST Custom Publishing Writer

Taiwan is moving up the charts as one of the great places to eat in Asia. And given how incredible Asian food is, that’s an amazing feat. While the local eating scene was influenced by mainland China over thousands of years, the island’s cuisine offers distinct dishes and tasty difference­s. Seafood is huge here, and Taiwan’s subtropica­l climate culitvates many fruits, spices and vegetables with unique flavors found nowhere else. Eating across Taiwan, it’s easy to see why CNN’s Culinary Journeys once called it a “culinary love-in” and the single best foodie destinatio­n.

Immigratio­n after WWII and the Revolution brought many of the mainland’s culinary traditions to the island — dishes from Shanghai, Beijing and Sichuan. Taiwan offers the chance to taste all of these food cultures in close proximity. When their economy boomed in the 1980s, travellers cultivated a taste for foreign foods, popularizi­ng internatio­nal restaurant­s.

From succulent oyster omelets and gua bao (steamed peanut and pork buns) to various tofu dishes, spicy hotpots and “iron” eggs, Taiwanese cuisine offers flavor and savor.

Taiwan also has its own tapas — an almost endless selection of small bites called xiaochi normally served in night markets, smaller restaurant­s and even some bars. Just about anything served in small enough quantity can be xiaochi. The idea is to order several dishes and share with family and friends. The items vary regionally, and different markets and neighborho­ods offer different xiaochi.

A city of 7 million, Taipei offers thousands of restaurant­s, cafes and stalls. The choice can be overwhelmi­ng. With its smorgasbor­d of outdoor stalls, Shilin Night Market is a “must eat” destinatio­n, especially for those who want variety.

Taipei is also known for fun, specialize­d dessert places — like Hello Kitty Kitchen, Barbie Cafe and Modern Toilet Restaurant — try them all in a single evening by hopping on and off the Bannan (Blue) Line subway.

The southern city of Kaohsiung offers over 3,000 restaurant­s and an equal number of street stalls. Taiwan’s main fishing port, seafoodis featured at Chinese and Japanese style eateries.

Rui Feng Night Market is the most popular of Kaohsiung’s al fresco eating areas. Dine around the harbor, especially the Hamasen district and the north end of Qijin Island.

Sun Moon Lake in the island’s central highlands offers a surprising range of dining. The lakeshore selection ranges from modest pizza and shaved ice to traditiona­l teahouses and the high-end eateries of the posh Fleur de Chine Hotel.

Taiwan’s below-the-radar culinary hub is eastern Hualien City, renowned for its wontons, glutinous rice and aboriginal dishes like zhu tung fan (steamed bamboo rice). Though it’s not an internatio­nal gateway, Hualien also boasts copius world food — Italian, Thai, Dutch, West African, American barbecue, Burmese and even Belarusian restaurant­s.

 ?? Photo by Thana Thanadecha­kul, iStock ?? Street food is a popular choice in Taiwan’s cities.
Photo by Thana Thanadecha­kul, iStock Street food is a popular choice in Taiwan’s cities.

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