Los Angeles Times

GOOD WORKS

- —Alison Ashton

I n We Fed an Island (Anthony Bourdain Books), $28, out Sept. 11, world-renowned chef and humanitari­an José Andrés tells the story of how he teamed up with volunteers from his World Central Kitchen foundation and local chefs in Puerto Rico to serve 3.5 million meals to people in the wake of Hurricane Maria last fall. He arrived on the island just days after the storm hit. What was the biggest challenge you encountere­d in Puerto Rico?

Everything was down. Electricit­y, banks, grocery stores, ATMs—they were all offline. We needed gas to run generators and power the kitchen, so we traded food for gas. Many roads were washed out, so we partnered with Homeland Security Investigat­ions—who had a fleet of 4x4s—and the National Guard to deliver our food to remote communitie­s. Small fixes, one step at a time. What was the most profound lesson you learned? To not think too big or get overwhelme­d. We realized we needed to just get started, get into the kitchen and cook—the smallest, most effective decision we could make. One plate at a time added up to millions of meals. What message do you hope readers will take away from We Fed an Island?

Anyone who reads this book will hopefully understand something that I’ve known for a long time: Food has the power to change the world. What's your favorite Puerto Rican dish or drink?

It’s impossible to pick just one! I feel very strongly about sancocho, the stew of meat, yucca, corn and more—this is what we started serving on day one out of my friend José Enrique’s restaurant in Santurce after the hurricane. And, of course, rum sour. It’s the perfect cocktail for a sunny afternoon in San Juan.

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