Los Angeles Times

Be brave and keep going

I was afraid of so much, but I made a vow before a trip to Israel: I would not be a wuss. It paid off in satisfacti­on.

- By Julie Steinschri­ber

I have always been a coward. When my husband’s Israeli cousin asked when I was going to visit his country, I told him I was afraid to go.

But when our rabbi announced he was planning a trip to Israel in 2013, the emotional pull of visiting the Holy Land outweighed my fears.

Speaking at a travel show, guidebook author, TV personalit­y and tour leader Rick Steves once said he didn’t want grouches on his trips. I decided I wouldn’t be the Israel trip complainer. Anything my fellow travelers did, I would do. I would not be a wuss.

We flew El Al, on which the preboardin­g security was reassuring­ly thorough. Each of us was carrying several prayer books to donate to a synagogue. When the boarding agent asked whether anyone had given us anything to carry, I said, “No.”

“Your rabbi didn’t give you books?” I was asked.

“Yes, but he’s not a stranger,” I replied. I was allowed to board.

Once in Israel, I faced my first test of bravery when we rafted the Jordan River. Ordinarily, I would have been afraid. Could I get in and out of the raft? Realizing I wouldn’t be left in that raft forever, that someone would help me get in and out, I climbed in.

“I am not a wuss,” I repeated out loud. Then I enjoyed the ride.

Before this trip, I would never have ridden a camel. At Genesis Land, whose website describes it as a place where visitors can “experience life as it was in biblical times,” everyone rode camels to Abraham’s Tent, where we would have dinner.

A friend had once posted on Facebook a picture of himself riding a camel. He lived to tell about it, so I decided I would do it too. (Postscript on that: That friend later posted a Facebook “memory” about the runaway camel he had ridden. Had I known runaway camels were a thing … well, I’m glad I didn’t know.)

The most adventurou­s part of the trip occurred in the caves of Beit Guvrin National Park. First, we participat­ed in a dig uncovering pottery from the Hellenisti­c period about 2,300 years ago. After that, we could go spelunking in a cave or sit under a pop-up tent waiting for the others to finish. Newly courageous, I chose spelunking.

The cave where the dig took place was well lighted. You went only into the first room. The spelunking cave was more treacherou­s. We had to light candles that sat in holes in the walls as we made our way. Once I had begun, there was no turning back.

I was the slowest one of our group, but I eventually arrived at a hole, about 2 feet in diameter, through which I was somehow supposed to lower myself. It was completely dark beneath the hole. I couldn’t tell how far I would drop. I wasn’t even sure I would fit through the hole.

I yelled for the guide, who had gone ahead. She returned with her flashlight, and I could see below. No longer a wuss, I lowered my feet into the hole and wiggled to the ground, feeling as though I had been born again. I navigated the rest of the cave by crawling, walking and scooting on my tush.

Waiting near the exit, our group cheered for me. At the pop-up tent, those who heard the story of my bravery gave me a standing ovation.

We saw and did amazing things on that trip. We met 30 relatives and U.N. peacekeepe­rs, floated on the Dead Sea, heard our voices echo from the valley below Masada and much more.

The trip was life-changing. Not only did I find my repository of bravery, but so did my friends. Last winter, when a California friend visited her grandchild­ren in New York, she had to drive one of them to preschool in the snow.

As she drove, she repeated, “I am not a wuss.”

You should try it sometime. Departure Points explores the ways traveling changes us, whether it’s a lesson learned or a truth uncovered. You may submit a first-person essay of 700 or fewer words to travel@latimes.com using “Departure Points” in the subject line. Please include your first and last names and your contact informatio­n for editorial considerat­ion.

 ?? Suprunvita­ly Getty Images ?? A VISIT to Beit Guvrin National Park in Israel brought out a brave spirit. This cave has niches for doves.
Suprunvita­ly Getty Images A VISIT to Beit Guvrin National Park in Israel brought out a brave spirit. This cave has niches for doves.

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