Los Angeles Times

A hushed silent night in the Holy Land

Bethlehem and other tourist- friendly sites mark Christmas with pandemic measures.

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BETHLEHEM, West Bank — The Holy Land on Thursday ushered in Christmas Eve with a stream of joyous marching bands and the triumphant arrival of the top Catholic clergyman, but few people were there to greet them as the COVID- 19 pandemic and a strict lockdown dampened celebratio­ns in the traditiona­l birthplace of Jesus.

Similar subdued scenes were repeated across the world as the festive family gatherings and packed prayers that typically mark the holiday were scaled back or canceled altogether.

Worshipers in Australia had to book tickets online to attend socially distanced church services. The Philippine­s prohibited mass gatherings and barred extended families from holding traditiona­l Christmas Eve dinners. Traditiona­l door- to- door children’s carols were canceled in Greece.

On Christmas Eve in Italy, church bells rang earlier than usual. The Italian government’s 10 p. m. curfew prompted pastors to move up services, with midnight Mass starting Thursday evening in some churches as early as a couple of hours after dark. Pope Francis, who has said people “must obey” civil authoritie­s’ measures to f ight the spread of COVID- 19, fell in line. This year, the Christmas vigil Mass in St. Peter’s Basilica was moved up from 9: 30 p. m. to 7: 30 p. m.

Normally, seats at the vigil Mass are quickly snapped up by Romans and tourists alike, but the pandemic has reduced tourists in Italy to a trickle. In keep

ing with social distancing measures, barely 200 faithful — instead of several thousand — spaced out in the basilica’s pews and wearing masks attended Francis’ celebratio­n of the Mass. A row of fiery red poinsettia plants warmly contrasted with the sumptuous cold marble of the basilica.

Francis in his homily offered ref lections on Christmas’ significan­ce. “We often hear it said that the greatest joy in life is the birth of a child. It is something extraordin­ary and it changes everything,” he said. A child “makes us feel loved but can also teach us how to love.”

“God was born a child in order to encourage us to care for others,” said Francis, who has made attention to the poor and unjustly treated a key theme of his papacy.

Celebratio­ns elsewhere

in Europe were canceled or greatly scaled back as virus infections surge across the continent and a new variant that may be more contagious has been detected.

In Athens, Christmas Eve was eerily silent. In normal times, voices of children singing carols while tinkling metal triangles can be heard all day. The decades- old custom, in which children go house to house and receive small gifts, was banned this year. Groups of children managed to honor the tradition by singing to Prime Minister Kyriakos Mitsotakis by video link — including students from a school for children with hearing diff iculty who performed in sign language.

In Bethlehem, officials tried to make the most out of a bad situation.

“Christmas is a holiday

that renews hope in the souls,” said Mayor Anton Salman. “Despite all the obstacles and challenges due to corona and due to the lack of tourism, the city of Bethlehem is still looking forward to the future with optimism.”

Raw, rainy weather added to the gloomy atmosphere, as several dozen people gathered in the central Manger Square to greet Latin Patriarch Pierbattis­ta Pizzaballa. Youth marching bands playing Christmas carols on bagpipes, accompanie­d by pounding drummers, led a joyous procession ahead of the patriarch’s arrival early in the afternoon.

“Despite the restrictio­ns and limitation­s we want to celebrate as much as possible, with family, community and joy,” said Pizzaballa, who was to lead a small mid

night Mass gathering later in the evening. “We want to offer hope.”

Thousands of foreign pilgrims usually f lock to Bethlehem for the celebratio­ns. But the closure of Israel’s internatio­nal airport to foreign tourists, along with Palestinia­n restrictio­ns banning intercity travel in the areas they administer in the Israeli- occupied West Bank, kept visitors away.

The restrictio­ns limited attendance to residents and a small entourage of religious officials. Evening celebratio­ns, when pilgrims normally congregate around the Christmas tree, were canceled, and midnight Mass was limited to clergy.

The coronaviru­s has dealt a heavy blow to Bethlehem’s tourism sector, the lifeblood of the local economy. Restaurant­s, hotels and gift shops have been shuttered.

Rio de Janeiro’s beaches remained open, but a City Hall decree aimed at limiting gatherings prevented drivers from parking along the shore. Rain also kept beachgoers at home.

Thomas Azevedo and his 9- year- old son braved the bad weather to set up a small stand, selling beer and caipirinha­s made from fresh fruit. By early afternoon, he hadn’t sold a thing.

“It’s not so much the rain; in previous years it was full of tourists at Christmas. This year there’s no one,” said Azevedo, 28.

Australian­s had until recently been looking forward to a relatively COVID- 19- free Christmas after travel restrictio­ns across state borders relaxed in recent weeks in the absence of any evidence of community transmissi­on. But after new cases were detected over the last week, states again closed their borders.

While many places around the globe were keeping or increasing restrictio­ns for Christmas, Lebanon was an exception. With its economy in tatters and parts of its capital destroyed by a massive Aug. 4 port explosion, Lebanon has lifted most virus measures ahead of the holidays, hoping to encourage spending. Tens of thousands of Lebanese expatriate­s have arrived home, leading to fears of an inevitable surge in cases during the festive season.

Lebanon has the largest percentage of Christians in the Middle East — about a third of its 5 million people — and traditiona­lly celebrates Christmas with much fanfare.

“People around us were tired, depressed and depleted, so we said let’s just plant a drop of joy and love,” said Sevine Ariss, one of the organizers of a Christmas fair along the seaside road where the explosion caused the most damage.

 ?? Hazem Bader AFP/ Getty I mages ?? A PALESTINIA­N scouts band parades in front of the Church of the Nativity during Christmas celebratio­ns Thursday in Bethlehem. Virus restrictio­ns have severely limited the number of visitors to the biblical city.
Hazem Bader AFP/ Getty I mages A PALESTINIA­N scouts band parades in front of the Church of the Nativity during Christmas celebratio­ns Thursday in Bethlehem. Virus restrictio­ns have severely limited the number of visitors to the biblical city.

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