Marin Independent Journal

Warm up with cider cocktails

- By Florence Fabricant

Amber is the color of autumn in a glass, with the tender blush of a Bellini giving way to sturdier, warming whiskey-based drinks. But it’s also time for cider, now on the upswing.

Cider is not only a sweetly refreshing family quaff; when fermented and alcoholic, it’s also a delicious alternativ­e that competes with beer.

You could argue that locally made, fresh nonalcohol­ic cider is simply apple juice. It’s really more than that and better because these days most apple juice ismade from imported concentrat­es, too sweet and with all the apple richness filtered out. Like wine grapes, cider apples are not meant for the fruit bowl. Instead they are varieties that deliver complexity and richness when pressed.

Hard cider is tart and refreshing, food-friendly and excellent to sip at dinner, as the English, French, Spanish and Canadians well know. Another apple drink to keep in the fridge is apple ice wine, as delectable a nectar with dessert as Muscat de Beaumes-deVenise. Made by pressing frozen apples that produce intensely concentrat­ed juice, Neige from Quebec is one label to look for; Still River from Massachuse­tts is another.

With fresh or hard cider on hand, you have the makings of all sorts of drinks.

RECIPES

Bourbon-cider spritz

Time: 10minutes

Yield: 1cocktail

2ounces Kentucky bourbon 1ounce fino sherry

1⁄2 ounce triple sec or Cointreau 3dashes Peychaud’s bitters 4ounces dry sparkling hard cider Combine bourbon, sherry and triple sec or Cointreau in a cocktail shaker with ice. Shake well and strain into a large wine glass halffilled with ice.

Top with bitters and pour in the sparkling cider, then serve.

Apples and oranges, mulled

Time: 15minutes, plus 4hours steeping

Yield: 1quart

1orange

1quart fresh cider

12thin slices fresh ginger, peeled or unpeeled

2whole star anise

1cinnamon stick

1⁄2 teaspoon black peppercorn­s

1⁄2 teaspoon whole allspice 12whole cloves

1teaspoon cider vinegar

Whiskey, dark rum, reposado tequila, sherry brandy, ginger beer or white wine, for spiking (optional) Use a vegetable peeler or paring knife to strip the zest off the orange. Juice the orange. Place the zest and juice in a 3-quart saucepan. Add the cider and all the remaining ingredient­s except the vinegar. Bring to a boil and let simmer for 5minutes. Remove from heat.

Stir in the vinegar. Steep for at least 4hours.

Strain if desired, or serve with the spices and some or all the other ingredient­s. Reheat to serve warm, or chill and serve cold.

Spike if desired.

 ?? LIZ CLAYMAN FOR THE NEWYORK TIMES ?? Mulled apple cider cocktails are a perfect fall drink.
LIZ CLAYMAN FOR THE NEWYORK TIMES Mulled apple cider cocktails are a perfect fall drink.

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