Marin Independent Journal

Tradition! Sort of

Some Seder dishes are nonnegotia­ble, but the rest can be tweaked

- By Susan Spungen

Another trip around the sun during COVID means another year of Zoom Seders. Whether virtual or inperson, a good Seder service can take a few hours with only ceremonial nibbles like matzo, haroseth, parsley and — get excited — a hard-boiled egg dipped in salt water. Hunger builds, but at least there’s wine.

The Seder meal that follows is culinarily a bit like Thanksgivi­ng in that there are certain dishes, like matzo ball soup and gefilte fish, that are nonnegotia­ble. But there are other parts of the menu that can be tweaked, and what a good year to try something new and perhaps a bit more exciting than the usual.

Roast chicken with apricots and olives

Ground sumac, which is more widely available than ever, lends its pinkish tone and lemony tang to this roasted chicken. Citrus juices

amplify the acidity in the assertive marinade, with dried apricots and green olives contributi­ng their sweet and sour notes

to a dish with real verve.

Matzo frittata

If you are a savory matzo brei person, you will adore this matzo frittata. And if you’re not familiar with matzo brei, consider this an introducti­on to the genre. In this recipe, a blend of eggs and matzo is packed with jammy caramelize­d onions and mushrooms, then crisped in a pan and cut into wedges. It reports for duty as a side dish, but provides plenty of leftovers that keep well for breakfasts and lunches.

Sweet potatoes with tsimmes glaze

Making tsimmes needn’t be a big fuss: This version evokes the spirit of the traditiona­l fruit and vegetable casserole in a modern way requiring almost no prep work and very little time.

Pop some halved sweet potatoes in the oven to roast and stir up a simple but lip-smacking glaze full of citrus, ginger, honey and prunes to pour over before serving.

 ?? PHOTOS BY JOHNNY MILLER — THE NEW YORK TIMES ?? Ground sumac, which is more widely available than ever, lends its pinkish tone and lemony tang to this roasted chicken with apricots and olives.
PHOTOS BY JOHNNY MILLER — THE NEW YORK TIMES Ground sumac, which is more widely available than ever, lends its pinkish tone and lemony tang to this roasted chicken with apricots and olives.
 ??  ?? Sweet potatoes with tsimmes glaze requires almost no prep work and very little time to cook.
Sweet potatoes with tsimmes glaze requires almost no prep work and very little time to cook.

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