Avoid the partiers to enjoy the scenery
If finding ocean views, a lake for swimming and a coastal waterfall all in one day appeal to you, an early start on the Palomarin trail in West Marin will get you the trifecta. But it might also get you on a course collision with people whose goals in the outdoors are at variance from yours. For visiting Palomarin, timing may be key.
If you plan to go all the way to the falls, you'll want the early start because ocean waterfalls are rare in Marin and attract a crowd. You'll need several hours to make the out-and-back-again trip, which totals 13 miles. Most of it is moderate, with wildflowers and views to keep you distracted if the going gets rough.
Don't let the wildflowers draw you off of the trail, though. As with so many Marin hikes, poison oak (aka my botanical nemesis) will be your near-constant companion until you reach the last beachgoing portion that leads to Alamere Falls. There is an unsanctioned and dangerous shortcut trail that goes to the top of the falls, where visitors risk encounters with poison oak and the need for rescue after a fall from the crumbling cliffs.
Another option for timing is to show up in the evening. We arrived for our most recent hike late on a spring day, which meant easy parking but limiting our journey to Bass Lake. The lake lies about 2.6 miles from the trailhead and is a popular swimming hole, weather allowing. You won't find lifeguards there, but you will find a beautiful, tree-shaded setting where you can take a little break before turning back, moving on to Wildcat Beach another 2.5 miles down the trail or going all the way to the falls.
Where the trail starts, after emerging from under a canopy of colonnaded eucalyptus trees, you can pause and take in beautiful views of the Pacific from coastal scrub—covered cliffs. Here the path can be rutted and a bit bumpy, and the shadeless exposure means you'll want to wear sunscreen or a good hat. After a little up and down overlooking the ocean, the trail becomes shadier as it passes ponds on the left. Bass Lake lies just past the ponds.
The flora along the way,
with the exception of the dreaded poison oak, are also worth a pause. Depending on seasonal timing, you'll see blackberry flowers, seaside daisies, longleaf paintbrush, manroot and the dashingly dubbed Ithuriel's spear, a purple-flowered beauty. We got lucky in the fauna on this visit, getting a chance to see a slightly chilled (and thus slowish) red-bellied newt crossing the path.
Also on the paths were a few people jams, including groups who spanned the entire trail, thoughtlessly blocking it. Other visitors were playing music loudly on their smartphones, which always strikes a discordant note when we're seeking an escape from the built world. We also found a lot of trash around the ponds on the way to the lake.
This experience and previous ones have taught us that the Palomarin trail features a mix of people. Some are like us, there to escape the human factor. Others have coolers, beach towels and the accouterments for a day partying around the water. That means getting a parking space isn't the only consideration when you time your visit.
If your aim is to experience nature, perhaps meet a newt and soak up the scenery, avoid peak party hours at Palomarin. Weekdays and later afternoon or evening might be your best bet for breaking away. Getting there
Take Highway 1 to the Olema-Bolinas Road and turn right (if you start seeing a lagoon vista on your right, you missed the turn). Turn left onto Horseshoe Hill Road, then right onto Mesa Road.
The arrival to the Palomarin Trailhead is a bouncy jaunt on the last mile and a half or so, so be prepared to go slowly on the washboard gravel road leading to the parking lot. This lot is often full to overflowing on long outdoor friendly days, but a late-afternoon arrival might mean some open spots. Vault toilet facilities are available. No pets allowed on this trail (an important rule in a sensitive ecological area and one we saw plenty of people breaking). The trail is largely not accessible and quickly becomes a rutted and bumpy single track before flattening out again.