Marin Independent Journal

WITH SILVERSEA, YOU'RE IN luxe

Here's how the cruise line pampers guests stem to stern — with personal butlers, microscopi­cally attentive service and more

- By David Dickstein

How luxurious is Silversea Cruises? “Very” is a simple answer, but to do the question justice, it really requires another: “Where to begin?” We may as well start at the top of the day, as in breakfast, when even the simplest of things is elegant, and elaborate on what many consider the epitome of sailing in style.

Kellogg's Frosted Flakes are not only tasty, they make for a grrreat example when comparing and contrastin­g Silversea's upper-luxury class of cruising with the other major consumer categories. So let's head to the buffet, grab a bowl and dig in.

On Carnival, Norwegian, Royal Caribbean and other mainstream-class lines, if the favorite breakfast of Tony the Tiger doesn't come in a single-serving cardboard box, it's probably out of a dispenser that requires a few turns of the knob at the serviceabl­e yet unsophisti­cated cereal bar. On Princess, Celebrity, Disney and other premium-class ships, Frosted Flakes often comes in singleserv­e plastic bowls. At the buffet on Regent Seven Seas, Seabourn, Windstar and other luxury-class ships, big spenders with a sweet tooth will likely find Frosted Flakes in a crystal bowl from which guests spoon into their own.

And then there's Silversea. As with so many things both ordinary and extraordin­ary, this ultra-luxury cruise line does things with a higher brow. Those boxes of Frosted Flakes lined up on a glass shelf in the Italian-themed La Terrazza bistro are not really for the taking — by you, that is. Just eyeing the cereal will get the attention of a watchful crew member who will assume the task, not only unboxing the sweetened contents from the other side of the sneeze guard, but having the cereal delivered to your table with your choice of six kinds of milk. They even do the pouring honors, but not before you sit down at the white linen-covered table. And don't you dare carry your own plate, as not letting them do it gets a reaction like you insulted their mother.

While this six-star level of attention is embraced by returning guests and nettlesome for the uninitiate­d, this is Silversea's culture, and it has been doing things this way since long before COVID-19 took serving utensils out of passengers' hands at the buffet. For nearly 30 years, the cruise line has

been pampering guests at lofty levels, right down to asking coffee drinkers how much foam they want with their flat white and which of five types of pillows they prefer on what might be the most comfortabl­e beds in the cruise industry.

Another bar-setter: When Silversea promises a butler assigned to each suite, he or she isn't just a cabin steward in tails. This class of butler shines your shoes without being asked, arranges for a tailor to hem newly purchased slacks, changes the casing of even your decorative pillows, responds to a page within seconds and, when they know you will be in the Dolce Vita lounge instead of your suite at 4:30 p.m., has your daily delivery of canapes sent to where you'll be playing team trivia. Oh, and those bougie bites come with unlimited caviar.

For a brand that's all about service and goes to more destinatio­ns than any other cruise line, it's surprising that Silversea hasn't served Southern California since 2018, the year

Royal Caribbean acquired the pioneer of all-inclusive cruising. Come January 2025, however, San Pedro's World Cruise Center returns as an embarkatio­n port for Silversea when Silver Shadow raises anchor for a 22-night voyage to six Hawaiian ports and four in French Polynesia. That April, the larger and newer Silver Moon embarks on a 19-night cruise from L.A. Harbor to Vancouver, British Columbia, with six Hawaiian ports and lots of sea days in between. (At last check, rates were 75% off for that sail, as low as $11,400, and that includes flights and transfers as part of Silversea's “door-to-door” all-inclusive fare.) In May 2025, Silver Shadow returns to the Golden State for an 18-night itinerary from L.A. to South Florida through the Panama Canal.

West Coast cruisers who don't want to wait that long or travel far to pick up a Silversea ship have a few options out of San Francisco this year and next, depending on availabili­ty: a 10-night expedition cruise to Puerto Vallarta on Silver Wind

(October); a 132-night journey to Hawaii, Oceania, Asia and Alaska on Silver Shadow (January); and a 23-day Panama Canal voyage to New York on Silver Shadow (May 2024). Additional­ly, Silversea has Silver Muse and Silver Whisper sailing to and from Anchorage and Vancouver for the Alaskan cruise season, which begins in May. (Deep discounts offered at press time had fares as low as $3,800 for a weeklong voyage to the Last Frontier.)

Silversea (silversea.com) sails to more than 900 destinatio­ns on all seven continents, and for the bulk of a recent 69-night trek, 140 well-to-do wanderlust­ers paying at least $51,000 did one of those large land masses in style. Their “Grand South American Cruise” out of Fort Lauderdale, Florida, was aboard the 596-passenger Silver Moon, the very ship that pays Southern California a visit in 2025. As with many cruises dubbed “grand” or “world,” this one was broken up into multiple itinerarie­s so those who can't afford to spend so much time and/or expense can still get a good taste of what cruising on Silversea is all about.

Sheer deck-adence

Speaking of good tastes, much of what was served on the 12-night leg from Rio de Janeiro to Bridgetown, Barbados, yielded plenty, as it should from ultra-luxury cruising. Nearly half of Silver Moon's Italian-accented decks have at least one restaurant, which is considerab­le for a midsize ship.

From top to near-bottom: Excellent pizzas and gelatos are served at Spaccanapo­li on Deck 11; on 10 is The Grill, the ship's poolside restaurant that at night transforms into Hot Rocks, where guests cook their own surf and turf on a 460-degree volcanic stone; and on 8 is the Parisian-inspired La Dame, the most elegant dinner option, well worth the $60 surcharge. Also on 8 is the Arts Café for perfect coffees and teas, and light bites changed five times between 6:30 a.m. and 11 p.m.; and on 7 is the aforementi­oned

La Terrazza, which transition­s from a breakfast and lunch buffet to a fine dining Italian restaurant in the evening. Steps away on the same deck is the Silver Note, an intimate supper club with terrific food, drinks, live music and a smooth vibe for those who know the tricks to score a coveted table. This popular joint is way too difficult to book, and a certain someone who likes to have dinner around 6 was lucky to get a table at 9 on an undesirabl­e night.

The lowest public deck is the most tasteful, as nearly every inch is dedicated to food. On 4 are the ship's two main dining rooms: the elegant Atlantide for seafood and steak, and S.A.L.T. Kitchen, which is one-quarter of a unique experienti­al program named for the acronym for “Sea & Land Taste.” It debuted on Silver Moon in 2021. The first page of S.A.L.T. Kitchen's menu changes with every port, featuring locally inspired dishes. Some of those recipes are cooked up next door at the S.A.L.T. Lab, which excitingly redefines the growing culinary class craze on cruises. It's a beautiful space, but with only nine stations, it's almost as hard to get into as the Silver Note upstairs. The other two components of S.A.L.T. are a bar that specialize­s in local libations, and culinary shore excursions that truly offer guests some local flavor. Also on 4 is Japaneseth­emed Kaiseki, with no surcharge for lunch but

$40 at dinner.

Personal preference

Just as ultra-luxury cruising isn't for everyone, neither is Silversea among the sailing elite. Take the dress code. Having cruised on 20 lines, several in the luxury category, we can say without a doubt that Silversea's is the strictest and most baffling. “Formal night” requires ladies to be in cocktail dresses or pantsuits and gentlemen in tuxedos, dinner jackets or dark suits and tie. The

thesaurus considers “informal” and “casual” as synonyms, but not Silversea. Men must still wear a jacket on “informal night,” with women in dresses or pantsuits. Also curious is that exceptions and variances exist depending on the day and whether you're inside or out. Oh, and if dinner is indoors, the dress code is different restaurant to restaurant.

Smokers delight in being able to light up portside at The Grill/Hot Rocks in addition to a

dedicated indoor-outdoor lounge and on the outside patio of the Arts Café. Nonsmokers may detect a waft that's surprising­ly omnipresen­t for a ship built in 2020.

Passengers expecting elaborate shows will be

disappoint­ed, but there should be enough talent among the entertainm­ent team to make up for modest production values. And although complaints were heard about the lack of activities scheduled during the day, this cruiser found the list to be robust for a luxury sail. Rounding out the key venues, a full-service spa includes a decentsize gym, while the casino, although small, is staffed with dealers reflective of Silversea's brand of niceness.

 ?? PHOTOS BY DAVID DICKSTEIN ?? Each passenger on Silversea is assigned a genuine butler, who will shine your shoes without being asked.
PHOTOS BY DAVID DICKSTEIN Each passenger on Silversea is assigned a genuine butler, who will shine your shoes without being asked.
 ?? ?? Chocolate Cocoa Croquant is a featured dessert at the La Dame specialty dining room.
Chocolate Cocoa Croquant is a featured dessert at the La Dame specialty dining room.
 ?? ?? Former Southern California­n Erin Montgomery leads a class on Brazilian cooking.
Former Southern California­n Erin Montgomery leads a class on Brazilian cooking.
 ?? ?? Early risers aboard Silver Moon take advantage of a warm Brazilian morning.
Early risers aboard Silver Moon take advantage of a warm Brazilian morning.
 ?? PHOTOS BY DAVID DICKSTEIN ?? A museum's worth of original artwork adorns Silver Moon.
PHOTOS BY DAVID DICKSTEIN A museum's worth of original artwork adorns Silver Moon.
 ?? ?? Newly promoted bar manager Franco West leads a coffee seminar.
Newly promoted bar manager Franco West leads a coffee seminar.
 ?? ?? Thinly sliced escalopes of Maine lobster make for a tasty appetizer at La Dame.
Thinly sliced escalopes of Maine lobster make for a tasty appetizer at La Dame.

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