OS Choices SSD Upgrades BIOS Passwords
OS Alternatives
Aloha, Doctor. Currently, my PC is running Windows 7 Ultimate, not because I am cheap, but because I refuse to throw money away. Every time I have chosen to buy the latest Microsoft operating system, I end up paying thousands of dollars for other applications I already own because they no longer work properly.
Working as a photographer who needs his monitors to stay clean, I passed on Windows 8 because of its Metro user interface (even though the move to a UEFI would have fixed multiple issues with my 24-plus hard drives). Windows 10 looks a lot better, but I just can’t bring myself to buy all of my software over again.
So, besides Apple and Linux, are there any other alternatives available to address what I consider to be corporate greed?
– Gordon
THE DOCTOR RESPONDS: How much convenience are you willing to give up for your principles? The Windows ecosystem isn’t perfect, but it provides the greatest breadth of choice when it comes to picking tools for work and play. If you’ve run into compatibility issues upgrading from one version of Windows to another, it might be worth considering better-supported software, rather than razing your hard drive and starting over.
The Doc sympathizes with those who eschew Windows and MacOS for a foundation built on free and open-source software. But why disregard Linux as well? Linux Mint, Ubuntu, Debian, Fedora, and OpenSUSE are all popular distributions made stronger by rich libraries of open-source tools and apps. FreeBSD or Haiku would probably be next on the Doc’s list if you are serious about going the alternative operating system route.
Whichever direction you go, start by installing VMware Workstation Player on your Windows 7-based PC. That will give you an opportunity to try the various options without doing irreparable damage to your existing setup.
Easier Than You Think
Dear Doc, I’m planning on building a PC in an NZXT S340 Elite chassis using an EVGA SuperNOVA 850W power supply, a Gigabyte Z270-based Gaming 7 motherboard, Intel’s Core i7-7700K, a GeForce GTX 1080, 32GB of G.Skill DDR4 memory, Samsung’s 500GB 960 EVO in an M.2 form factor, a WD 2TB hard drive, and NZXT’s Kraken X52 cooler. While there’s no time pressure, I don’t want to screw this up and destroy any of the components I’m buying. Cost is important, but not the primary consideration.
I’ve read that it’s a good idea to assemble all the components outside the case to verify they work properly before installing them. Assuming that this is a reasonable approach, my plan would be to install the RAM, graphics card, CPU, and M.2 SSD on the motherboard. However, the Z270-based board has two M.2 connectors, so which should I use, given that I’m installing a GeForce GTX 1080? From there, I’m guessing I’d connect my monitor to the graphics card, hook up to the PSU, and power up.
The next step, I imagine, would be to install Windows 10 from a thumb drive. Can I install Windows without attaching the closed-loop cooler, or does this put the CPU at risk? Ideally, I’d set the cooler up after transferring my hardware to its final resting place in the case, at which point I could also plug in the fans and install the hard drive.
I’m perhaps most nervous about installing Windows 10. As long as I’ve built PCs, most of my problems have come from one Microsoft product or another. Any comments or advice you could pass my way would be much appreciated.
–Peter Luptovic
THE DOCTOR RESPONDS: Assembling and powering up components outside of your case is a good way to troubleshoot known issues. If all of this machine’s hardware is new, though, build it up into the chassis straight away to avoid accidental bumps, falls, or spills. Some enthusiasts insist on installing their CPU and memory on an open test bench, but NZXT’s S340 is roomy enough to work inside.
That should address your question about installing Windows without a heatsink and fan on your CPU, too. Intel’s Core i7-7700K does include sensors and protections to