KEY FINDINGS

• The iPhone has come a long way in 10 years—so long, that the design has cycled back a bit, and this looks more like the original than we’ve seen in a long time. As with the iPhone 8, Apple has banished the unsightly (and environmentally responsible) regulatory markings from the back. • The pentalobe screws at the bottom look weirdly unfinished —the bottom ones are more like pins. Luckily, they haven’t rearranged too much else, as our typical trifecta of iOpener, iSclack, and iFixit Opening Picks works, as in the past. • Looks like sideways-opening iPhones are here to stay. Inside, a single bracket covers every logic board connector— we’ve never seen this kind of connector density. We’re faced with tri-point screws standing sentry over any repairs once you get past the pentalobe screws guarding the door. Something tells us Apple doesn’t really want us tinkering. • We finally free this most dense of logic boards to get a closer look—it is incredibly space efficient. Comparing the two boards, the iPhone X motherboard is about 70 percent of the size of the iPhone 8 Plus board—more space for battery. • The dual rear camera has a beefy bracket that looks like it might offer some bendgate-proofing support for the delicate components. The cameras are also secured to the rear case with some foam adhesive to keep things from jostling out of place. These cameras really need to stay put for Portrait Mode and similar features to work their magic. Surrounding the camera housing cover glass, you can see tiny spot welds, likely holding the walls of the camera bump to the case. • Repairability Score: 6 out of 10 (10 is easiest to repair). Display and battery repairs remain a priority. A cracked display can be replaced without removing the biometric Face ID hardware. Liberal use of screws is preferable to glue—but you’ll need Apple-specific drivers (Pentalobe and tri-point), in addition to a standard Phillips. Waterproofing complicates some repairs, but makes difficult water damage repairs less likely. Fussy cables tie unrelated components into complex assemblies—expensive and troublesome to replace. Glass on front and back doubles the likelihood of drop damage— and if the back glass breaks, you’ll be removing every component, and replacing the entire chassis.