Men's Journal

¡OYE! 4 KILLER MEZCALS

Your chance to make a difference by making a cocktail.

- by SEAN CUNNINGHAM

INTEREST IN mezcal has grown in the United States with the emergence of celebrity brands like Dos Hombres ( from Aaron Paul and Bryan Cranston) and the nascent “Mezcalifor­nia” movement, which has produced California renditions of mezcal. Customaril­y sipped neat, mezcal’s versatilit­y has made it an increasing­ly popular stand-in for gin in a Negroni, whiskey in an old-fashioned, and tequila in a margarita.

Mezcal—a smoky, roasted agave-based liquor—traditiona­lly comes from the Mexican state of Oaxaca, and that’s still where the best stuff is found. “Most mezcals we love are very small-batch production­s made in Oaxaca and hard to find elsewhere,” says Fausto Zapata, co-founder of El Silencio, a Mexican-american brand.

But the coronaviru­s hit Mexico exceptiona­lly hard, meaning it hit the mezcal industry hard. The tourism tumble has been devastatin­g to small mezcal producers in Oaxaca.

This is where you enter the picture. Until you can make it to Mexico, you can stock your bar with small yet exceptiona­l brands, helping you both savor and support the mezcal tradition.

Real Minero, Espadín Largo

Traditiona­l mezcal is distilled in clay pot stills and usually softened in glass for months before bottling. This one is a Fausto Zapata smallbatch favorite. $145

El Silencio, Ensamble

This artisanal mezcal emphasizes heritage. “Opening a bottle of Silencio feels like taking a mini-trip to the agave fields of Oaxaca,” says co-founder Vincente Cisneros. $80

Doña Vega Mezcal, Espadín

Doused with praise from Oprah to Forbes, this mezcal brand was founded by and predominan­tly produced by women. $50

Lalocura, Pechuga

The 15-year-old agave in Lalocura mezcal is cooked in an undergroun­d pit, mashed by hand with wooden mallets and fermented with open-air yeasts in cypress tanks. $160

 ??  ?? Doña Vega founder Sonya Vega Auvray.
Doña Vega founder Sonya Vega Auvray.
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