Make a big statement with an extra-large houseplant
I live in a mid-century style house with 16-foot ceilings at the tallest point, so when my husband and I moved in five years ago, we started filling the spaces with large houseplants. Not only do they bring the outdoors in, they’re often more affordable – and fulfilling – than, say, a side table or a floor lamp.
Whether you’re looking for your first plant or your 10th, if you’re in the market for something extralarge, it’s smart to take a trip to your local nursery, says Madeline Hooper, co-host of the public television show “GardenFit.” “It’s ideal to see a plant [in person] because you get a visceral reaction to it,” the New York gardener says. “Get what really excites you because you’re going to be living with it every day.”
Hooper also suggests not buying the largest plant you find; instead, start with a medium-sized version that will grow. This will ease the burden of maneuvering it around your home as you figure out optimal lighting conditions.
Ready to go shopping for a statement plant? Here are some ideas.
FIDDLE-LEAF FIG
10 feet Intermediate
Grows to:
Difficulty: to expert
Great for: High-light rooms; people who like a challenge
The fiddle-leaf fig has become an interior-design favorite for its sculptural foliage and dramatic stature. But these plants aren’t the easiest to care for, requiring bright, indirect light and consistent watering, says Hanna Kolaks, horticulturist at the Missouri Botanical Garden.
“If red specks on the leaf appear, it’s due to the cells receiving too much water, too fast, and bursting, called edema,” she says. “Avoid letting the soil dry completely in between waterings, and be sure to adequately soak the soil when watering.”
Leaves dropping and foliage discoloration are telltale signs of stress, usually attributed to lighting or watering issues – something I personally encountered when we lost a trio of gorgeous (not to mention, expensive) fiddle-leaf figs due to lack of light in our great room. “No plant actually loves low light. Some only tolerate it more than others,” explains Kate Osmond, assistant general manager of Gardens of Babylon in Nashville.
“Since this plant has large leaves, it can gather dust rather quickly so be sure to wipe down the leaves on occasion with a damp cloth,” adds Kolaks, noting that drafts and dry air can also damage a fiddle-leaf.
BIRD OF PARADISE
Grows to: 20 feet Difficulty: Beginner Great for: A room with direct sun exposure
If you’re looking to incorporate tropical vibes, this is a great pick. Bird of paradise plants, with their large, palm-like leaves, can rocket in height, but it’s OK to prune them back if necessary. The oldest leaves on any plant will wither and turn brown as a plant matures, Osmond says, so remove fading foliage with clean, sharp pruners.
“Best practice would call for sterilizing your snips before making cuts on a new plant,” she recommends. “I like to wipe them down with whatever rubbing alcohol you already have in your medicine cabinet.”
The bird of paradise needs direct sun; you can even move it outdoors in the summertime before bringing it back in during the dormant season. It also prefers fertile, organic soil (loamy, acidic) with good drainage.
Bird of paradise has similar watering needs as the ficus Audrey. Let the top few inches of the container dry out, then soak thoroughly. You might notice the leaves start to curl and droop when it gets too thirsty, Osmond says, but they should perk back up after a drink. Bird of paradise leaves can also split easily, particularly in hightrafficked
areas or near a strong air vent, but don’t let that stress you out either – split leaves are still healthy.
FICUS AUDREY
Grows to: 10 feet Difficulty: Beginner to intermediate
Great for: Medium to high-light rooms, or corners with bright, indirect light
Osmond finds the fiddleleaf fig’s lower-maintenance cousin, the Audrey, to be the real standout of the ficus family. “An Audrey brings the same impact that growing a tree indoors offers, but with cleaner lines [because of its simpler leaf shape] … and less fuss,” she says. “These plants still prefer a strong light source but are generally sturdier and more adaptable to different conditions.”
“Knowing when to water is all about feeling the soil of each plant rather than watering on a schedule,” Osmond says. “Like all ficus, the Audrey prefers to dry out a bit in between deep, thorough waterings, so wait until the top few inches or top 25 percent of the container is dry, then soak the soil until water drains out the bottom of the container.”
Do not let the container sit in standing water, she adds, and remember that the more light a plant receives, the faster it will dry out.
MONSTERA DELICIOSA
Grows to: 15 feet Difficulty: Beginner Great for: A south-facing window with bright, indirect light
One of the easier houseplants to care for, the monstera deliciosa (also called split-leaf philodendron) can grow massive leaves when conditions are optimal. A monstera can reach 15 feet tall with the right support, care and patience, notes Alfred Palomares, vice president of merchandising at 1-800-Flowers.com. It does need a support system – like moss poles, stakes or a trellis – to help it climb and grow.
This plant is also semidrought tolerant, but you’ll want to water yours often enough to keep the soil from totally drying out. An inexpensive moisture meter can help you determine when your monstera (or any houseplant) needs a drink. Palomares, a selfproclaimed “plant dad,” suggests planting a monstera in well-draining, peatbased potting mix or coconut coir soil with a more neutral pH balance.
If your monstera gets too large, you can prune it, starting with older leaves that may be yellowing or damaged. Then look for overcrowded areas to trim back, Palomares says.
RUBBER TREE
Grows to: 10 feet Difficulty: Intermediate Great for: Medium to high light rooms, with space near a window
Also known as a ficus elastica, the rubber tree is “easier going,” Osmond says, plus these come in a number of varieties, with an array of foliage colors. Her personal favorites include the “ruby” with reddish-purple leaves; the “tineke” with pastel green, off-white and pink foliage; and the “burgundy” with red-tinged and ultra-dark green leaves.
Palomares says rubber trees grow well in a soilmix with perlite or coconut coir to help hold moisture. “The soil should never be thoroughly dried out either, as this plant cannot tolerate a drought,” he says. If you need to prune a rubber tree, he advises doing so during the growing season in spring and summer, to keep the plant healthy and encourage new growth.
CORN PLANT
Grows to: 6 feet Difficulty: Beginner Great for: Dimmer spots, up to spaces with bright, indirect light
If your room is on the dimmer side, Osmond recommends looking into dracaenas – often mistaken for palms, these plants are characterized by their tall, lanky silhouettes and grasslike leaves. One popular type is the corn plant, which doesn’t require much sun. “You’ve probably seen these staples around airports and shopping malls for this very reason,” she says, though “some are more tolerant of lower light than others.”
Corn plants prefer welldraining soil that includes a mix of clay, sand and silt, according to Palomares, which helps water run through more efficiently. While these plants are quite forgiving and can withstand short periods of drought, says Kolaks, you’ll likely want to water yours thoroughly once a week to every 10 days; in the winter, you might stretch to two weeks.
If your corn plant grows too tall, Palomares recommends cutting the tops of the stems. “You can also use the tops of the plant to propagate and grow new corn plants to add to your collection, or gift to friends,” he says.
BANANA TREE
Grows to: 6 feet Difficulty: Challenging Great for: Homes with a lot of light and humid, warm spaces
Banana trees – which aren’t actual trees, but rather herbaceous plants, Kolaks notes – grow in the tropics where they experience high humidity, warm temperatures, full sun and consistent rains. If you want one to thrive in your home, you’ll need to replicate that environment to the best of your ability.
“Place the plant in the sunniest area you have, bumping up the humidity with a humidifier, avoiding drafts and watering one to two times a week,” advises Kolaks. The amount of water required will vary depending on the banana tree’s size, but the soil should be thoroughly soaked each time you give it a drink, she says. To prevent overwatering, make sure its container has drainage holes, and don’t hesitate to break out your moisture meter. Since these are such fast growers, Kolaks adds that they may need to be fertilized more frequently than your other house plants.
Though a banana tree requires at least six hours of direct light each day, some varieties have leaves that easily burn. Palomares recommends rotating the plant a quarter turn every two weeks so that all sides get a shift closest to the light source. And sorry: Your banana tree won’t actually grow bananas indoors.