Crunchy tacos with tempeh are a twist on a classic
In 2015, the taco – a staple foodstuff for millions of people; a morning meal, easy lunch, Tuesday dinner and late-night bite – got its own emoji. But that first draft, with its yellow, crunchy-looking tortilla, layer of brown meat, shredded orange cheese and red and green pixelated garnish, was the subject of much disdain.
“While Emojipedia describes the new character as ‘a Mexican food item,’ the taco depicted by Apple isn’t Mexican at all,” Caitlin Dewey wrote in 2015 for The Post. “Crispy taco shell, strips of lettuce, shredded yellow cheese: This is the stuff of American fast-food chains, not
Mexican cuisine.”
Indeed, taco experts and fanatics in Los Angeles were quick to dismiss the emoji, calling it inauthentic and a “gringo taco” dreamed up by Big Fast Food. There was truth to that critique: Taco Bell put its money and mouth behind the campaign to get a taco emoji, so it’s no wonder that most taco emoji on the various operating systems still look like the chain’s signature taco.
A year later, Apple redesigned its emoji to feature a soft tortilla and pleasing melange of fillings. Lots of people say it is a somewhat more accurate representation of the Mexican dish. (The original depiction, with its crunchy shell and orange cheese, remains at-large on other operating systems.) But is Apple’s soft taco emoji more authentic?
The tacos I grew up eating were a multicultural mix: My Puerto Rican dad would add sazón to the meat mixture, and my Iranian mom would put thin french fries atop the stewed filling. Herbs, shredded iceberg and orange Colby were the main garnishes on tacos built into crunchy shells, soft flour tortillas or even squares of lavash.
In my 20s, I moved to Southern California, arguably the world’s leading taco capital outside Mexico. There, among the many taco trucks and gas station stalls, rich, tempting spits and white-hot griddles, is Mitla Cafe. Since 1937 the small restaurant has served a generous variety of homestyle Mexican dishes, including chiles rellenos, enchiladas and tamales. Also on the menu? Tacos dorados, or what many north of the border call crunchy tacos.
It’s not a stretch to say that Taco Bell wouldn’t exist if it hadn’t been for Mitla. It was at Mitla in San Bernardino, Calif., that Taco Bell founder Glen Bell had his first taste of a crunchy, fried taco shell filled with meat, salsa and shredded cheese. It sounds like a legend, but that’s only because it’s a true story that’s not told often enough.
My point is: Authenticity is a myth. So, I’ll always have a soft spot for all kinds of crunchy tacos, whether they’re the puffy tacos popular in San Antonio
or the Americanized high school cafeteria-style hard-shell tacos with orange cheese. Golden on the outside and filled to the top lip of their shell, these tacos dorados are proof positive that Mexican culture is alive and well in the U.S. Just like all
the different taco emoji, there’s a taco for every taste.
This variation on the crunchy taco substitutes crumbled and sauteed tempeh for the meat. It’s a neat party trick, and one I think you should try for dinner tonight.