Miami Herald

Michelin adds 8 Miami restaurant­s to 2023 guide

- BY CONNIE OGLE cogle@miamiheral­d.com Connie Ogle: 305-376-3649, @OgleConnie

Michelin Guide can’t get enough of Miami.

The guide, which awarded stars to 10 local restaurant­s in 2022 for the first time, has added eight more Miami restaurant­s to its guide for 2023. They’re highlighte­d as “New,” with the idea of helping foodies find new discoverie­s before the annual announceme­nt of Stars and Bib Gourmands (restaurant­s where diners can eat for less than $50).

Does this mean these restaurant­s could earn stars in the future? It’s possible, but there’s no guarantee. Gwendal Poullennec, internatio­nal director of the Michelin Guides, said in a statement that the additions are a move to “strengthen the ties that bind us to food lovers.”

“We hope that these regular revelation­s and updates to the selection throughout the year will provide opportunit­ies to highlight the profession and invite everyone to discover and support the restaurant­s around them,” he said.

Here are the Miami restaurant­s added, with comments from the Michelin guide. “New” addiforwar­d. tions for Orlando and Tampa, the other two Florida cities visited by Michelin judges last year, will be released in the coming months.

Brasserie Laurel:

Chef Michael Beltran, whose Coconut Grove restaurant Ariete was awarded a Michelin star last year, has opened a French spot that “delivers a hefty dose of nostalgia with escargot drenched in garlic butter, foie gras with berry gastrique and lobster with veal sweetbread­s. Though rich, the cooking — and the environmen­t, for that matter — manage to feel decidedly of the times.”

Fiola Miami: Seafood ● is king at Chef Fabio Trabocchi’s Italian restaurant. The Coral Gables spot recently opened its rooftop bar to the public. “Caviar and truffles can find their way to any dish, if you ask, and house-made pastas like spaghetti alla vongole are portioned to share. From there, the grill does most of the heavy lifting for any whole fish and high-end steaks offered.”

Lido: The Four Seasons

● Hotel in Surfside already is home to Thomas Keller’s Michelin-starred The Surf Club. The Italian restaurant Lido, also on the property, is seafoodThe “Crudo is an easy start, like bluefin tuna tartare with pickled seaweed and puffed wild rice. Plenty will be content with just a king crab salad, but don’t ignore house-made pastas like seafood risotto or spaghetti with clams.”

Lion & the Rambler: ●

Chef Michael Bolen’s restaurant, in the former space of Eating House in Coral Gables, started out as a tasting menu-only spot. Now, the small menu delivers more. “Excellent, house-made bread is everywhere here, but the best is his rosemary focaccia, at once crispy and airy and served with a thrilling house-cultured butter that ages for 10 days. Steak tartare gets an elegant upgrade thanks to roasted capers and jalapeño oil. Tender pelmeni stuffed with squash arrive crowned in a delicious garlic foam.”

Rosie’s: This brunch

● spot from husband-andwife team Akino and Jamila West, now open in Miami’s Little River neighborho­od, offers a laidback, outdoor vibe and a Southern menu. “Deviled eggs with chicharron­es, biscuits in guanciale gravy and fluffy banana pancakes with vanilla custard are primo brunch favorites. Heartier hits, like fried hot

chicken and waffles or a generous fried fish and grits with collard greens, satiate larger appetites.”

Tambourine Room by Tristan Brandt:

This 18-seat restaurant, off the main bar inside the Carillon Miami Wellness Resort in Miami Beach, is the brainchild of Chef Tristan Brandt, whose German restaurant­s have earned Michelin stars. There are two seatings each night and a modern menu. The guide says: “Expect rich, bold sauces and foams made with the likes of parmesan, lobster and saffron, and ginger turbocharg­ing everything from tomatoes to scallops to wagyu.”

The Gibson Room:

Yes, Michael Beltran has two restaurant­s on this list. The menu at this spot on Coral Way “does not fit into a tidy box: Croutons in the Caesar are filled with a mousse of anchovies. Agnolotti are handmade, packed with a clever

venison bolognese. Wide as a dinner plate, the chicken schnitzel gets dolled up with salsa verde, a fried egg, and boquerones.”

Walrus Rodeo: The

● team behind the unassuming Boia De, which earned a Michelin star last year, has opened a new spot in the same Buena Vista strip mall, with all the cooking done on a wood-fire grill. Vegetables tend to be the focus here. “Carrot tartare with carrot top salsa or schmaltz-roasted maitake mushrooms with heirloom beans exemplify delicious sophistica­tion. Even the lamb ragù lasagna is a light-hearted, garden marvel: The pasta sheets are made from mustard greens. There is, of course, some meat, as well as pizza, but it’s the charred quail which recalls the best of backyard barbecues.”

 ?? MICHAEL PISARRI ?? The Tambourine Room by Tristan Brandt is inside the Carillon Miami Wellness Resort in Miami Beach.
MICHAEL PISARRI The Tambourine Room by Tristan Brandt is inside the Carillon Miami Wellness Resort in Miami Beach.

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