Milwaukee Journal Sentinel

The perfect loaf

- KRISTINE M. KIERZEK

Clearly the appeal of meatloaf is universal. So how do you achieve the perfect loaf?

Formula: Typically, it consists of a ground meat or protein, a starch or binder like bread crumbs, cornflakes, crackers or oatmeal, plus eggs. Toppings vary greatly, from ketchup to gravy or even a hot sauce-inspired option with sriracha to soy sauce or maple glaze. Even cheese or salsas have been added.

Binders: While eggs, oatmeal and bread crumbs are common additions as binders and fillers, there are updated variations when it comes to pulling it all together. Mailorder meatloaf maker Cynthia Kallile notes that panko crumbs add crunch and fluff, while regular bread crumbs can be a bit dense; you also could use saltine crackers or even gluten-free crackers.

“You can just do so many things if you open your mind to possibilit­ies,” she added. “When I am creating new recipes, I take a bit of it and bake it in the oven. Then I taste-test it. OK, it needs more bread crumbs or seasoning.”

Mixing matters. Be gentle and get your (clean) hands in there, but don’t overmix. Avoid getting heavyhande­d and packing ingredient­s down.

Moisture matters. No one wants a dry, heavy dinner. Adding mushrooms, onions, carrots and garlic not only can add moisture and flavor, but they can also stretch the meal. Your loaf should be firm, not runny.

Sauté first. Additional­ly, while some people may love raw onion in the mix, “A Meatloaf in Every Oven” author Jennifer Steinhauer recommends sautéing onions and vegetables first.

“I find they have a more pleasant texture,” she said. “People can argue about that, but the sautéed onions, any sautéed vegetable, even some of the spices, I think it is helpful and does a lot for the flavor and texture. It is really about having that wonderful aromatic of onions and garlic going through the entire loaf instead of in chunks.”

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