Sesame Noodles

Makes 4 servings

This recipe for Sesame Noodles comes from Pat Tanumihardja's second cookbook, “Farm to Table Asian Secrets” (Tuttle, March 2017). The biggest difference between Chinese sesame paste and tahini, its Middle Eastern counterpart, is that Chinese sesame paste is made of toasted white sesame seeds, and commercial tahini is typically made from raw hulled seeds. But you could use tahini in a pinch; just add a little toasted sesame oil to adjust the flavor.

The mild-tasting baby radishes like French Breakfast and other heirloom varieties that start appearing in spring make a fun and tasty topping for this simple cold dish.

1 pound fresh Chinese egg noodles, or 8 ounces dried spaghetti

3 tablespoons sesame oil (divided)

3 tablespoons soy sauce

2 tablespoons rice vinegar

3 tablespoons

Chinese sesame paste

2 tablespoons smooth peanut butter

1 tablespoon honey

1 tablespoon grated fresh ginger

1 tablespoon minced garlic

2 teaspoons chili paste like sambal oelek

2 to 3 tablespoons warm water

2 mini seedless cucumbers, such as

Persian, peeled and cut into matchsticks

1⁄2 cup carrot matchsticks

1⁄2 cup French Breakfast or other red radishes, trimmed and thinly sliced

2 green onions (green parts only)

1⁄4 cup crushed roasted peanuts

Bring a large pot of water to a boil. Cook noodles according to package directions until al dente. Drain, rinse with cold water, drain again and toss with 1 tablespoon of the sesame oil.

In a medium bowl, whisk together remaining 2 tablespoons sesame oil, the soy sauce, vinegar, sesame paste, peanut butter, honey, ginger, garlic and chili paste. Add warm water, 1 tablespoon at a time, until sauce reaches the consistency you like. (I like mine as thick as heavy cream.)

Pour three-fourths of the sauce over the noodles, toss and taste. Add more or stop there. Transfer to a serving bowl and garnish with the cucumber, carrot, radishes, green onions and peanuts.

Note: If you have an abundance of toasted sesame seeds in your pantry, you can make your own sesame paste. Pour 1 cup toasted sesame seeds into food processor and process 2 to 3 minutes until a crumbly paste forms. Add 3 tablespoons vegetable oil and process another 1 to 2 minutes, scraping down side as necessary, until paste reaches desired consistency. To make a thinner paste, add 1 to 2 more tablespoons oil. Makes 3⁄4 to 1 cup, depending on how much oil you use. Transfer to a jar. Will keep in the fridge 2 to 3 months.