Milwaukee Journal Sentinel

Hudson is a charming river city

- CHELSEY LEWIS

Hudson is a Wisconsin destinatio­n that has a little something to please everyone.

Shopping, dining and historic lodging in a quaint and walkable downtown. A picturesqu­e perch on the St. Croix River, popular with sailors, kayakers and others.

The city is so charming that my mom and I were coaxed into staying an extra night. Our lodgings were a major convincing factor: the beautiful Phipps Inn Bed and Breakfast, an 1884 Queen Anne Victorian with a soaring white turret, intricate wood floors and original stained-glass windows.

Innkeeper Mary Ellen Cox was only about five minutes into our tour of the home when I decided to stay another night. Our drive into town had confirmed there was more than enough to do in the area, and the home clearly needed a two-night stay to be fully appreciate­d.

The home’s builder, William Phipps, made his money in railroads, land and lumber. He built the ornate, three-story home in Hudson in 1884. It became a bed and breakfast in 1990.

The inn’s main floor features a baby grand piano, pool room and dining room where we’d enjoy a multicours­e breakfast the next two days (I’m still dreaming about the stuffed French toast and scones).

Four guest rooms fill the second floor. Ours, Victoria’s Room, was the sitting room for Mrs. Phipps, whose master bedroom was next door and is now another suite. Two more suites are on the third floor, which Cox told us was once a ballroom.

Each of the six suites has a private bathroom, queen bed, whirlpool tub and a fireplace (six of the home’s 11 fireplaces are original).

The elegant home is on the National Register of Historic Houses, and while it is one of the biggest of the 19th-century homes in Hudson, it’s not the only one. More historical homes line 3rd St., as well as downtown.

Across the street from the Phipps, the Octagon House Museum houses the St. Croix Historical Society in an octagonal home built by John Moffatt in 1855.

Today that history matches a booming antiques industry, with shops lining 2nd St., where other boutiques, galleries and specialty shops complete the roster. Knoke’s is a highlight, offering handmade chocolates and other candies.

Dining options abound, but only Pier 500 on 1st St. has a patio with views of the river. For an after-dinner drink, head to the rooftop patio at Mallory’s on 2nd St.

The Phipps Center for the Arts — partially funded by a foundation started by William Phipps’ son Stephen — hosts a slew of cultural performanc­es throughout the year, plus boasts six art galleries.

The St. Croix River is one of Hudson’s biggest assets. The river is part of the St. Croix National Scenic Riverway, a 250-mile river way that includes the Namekagon River to the northeast. The riverway is a prime spot for kayaking and canoeing, camping and fishing.

With so much to do, two nights might not be enough to see all of Hudson.

More informatio­n: Rates at the Phipps Inn, 1005 3rd St., Hudson, start at $159 per night. Call (715) 386-0800 or see phippsinn.com.

Getting there: Hudson is 310 miles northwest of Milwaukee via I-94.

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