LEMON LOVE
Tart, bright flavors are made for hot days, light dining
If you’ve got a zest for summer eating, brighten up your warm-weather meals with lemons: those sunny oval orbs of refreshment. Vibrant lemons complement many beloved warm-weather favorites, from seafood and chicken to seasonal fruit and desserts. And what could be more satisfying on a sizzling summer afternoon than an icy glass of homemade lemonade?
Whether acting in a starring or supporting role, lemons are so versatile they have become a kitchen essential.
Lemons may have even earned their place on the list of famous sidekicks of all time along with Ed McMahan and Dr. Watson. Squeezing one wee lemon wedge can perk up pasta, salads or beverages — a key ingredient despite its small part. Didn’t someone famous once say, “Remember, there are no small parts, only small . . . fruits?”
Lemon lovers can unleash the full pucker power of this brilliant yellow citrus in zesty desserts, an ideal way to end a summer meal.
“Lemons are a great addition to a lot of dishes,” said Corinne Kaehler, professional cook for the Bartolotta Restaurants. “Their brightness and acidity are needed to add balance to dishes both savory and sweet.
“Lemons fit well with summer,” she added. “Their freshness and brightness work great on a hot day. Nothing is more refreshing at the end of a hot day than a vodka and seltzer with a twist of lemon.”
Kaehler, 25, a Milwaukee east sider, loved to cook and bake as a child with her mother, Kitty, growing up in Brookfield. An honors graduate with an associate degree in culinary arts from Milwaukee Area Technical College, she has worked at Bacchus and The Rumpus Room restaurants. This summer she is managing the Northpoint Custard stand at Bradford Beach. Kaehler’s favorite savory dish using lemons is fish. “A salmon dish can be flat and slightly fatty without an addition of a lemon. I love to season salmon simply, with salt and cracked pepper. Sear the salmon until golden brown on either side. At the end, squeeze fresh lemon over the fish and add a tablespoon of butter and sprig of thyme. This dish goes great with fresh asparagus and rice pilaf,” she explained.
Sublime lemons
Here in the Midwest, lemons, known in the botanical world as citrus limon, don’t just grow on trees. Luckily, this sublime fruit is available year-round in grocery stores.
At Sendik’s Fine Foods in Brookfield, produce manager Thomas Wendling said the store’s lemons are grown in California from May through October and imported from Mexico in colder months.
They sell the Lisbon lemon available now through fall, and the similar Eureka lemon in late fall and winter, according to Wendling. “I can’t tell the difference between them,” he said. Eurekas and Lisbons have a tart flavor and thick, bright yellow peel. Lemons are inexpensive and often go on sale. “On the produce scale, they are relatively cheap,” he said. Often, Eurekas or Lisbons will sell at two for $1, with organics usually being slightly higher priced.
Sendik’s also sells Meyer lemons, Wendling said, when they
are available.
“There are a lot of people who have never had them, and they should try them,” he said. “A Meyer lemon is not as tart and is a lot juicier.”
An early 20th-century introduction from China, the rounder Meyer lemon is a cross between a lemon and an orange or mandarin. Its taste is sweeter, and its skin is thinner with a more floral scent.
Meyers are usually available at Sendik’s from October through May, and possibly late summer depending on supply from growers, Wendling said. The smaller Meyers are actually less expensive per pound than other lemons, but they seem more expensive because they are usually sold per pound, not per lemon.
Professional cook Kaehler recommends picking lemons that are somewhat firm and free from blemishes, then storing them in a cool, dry spot.
“Lemons on the counter keep for about a week,” she said. Otherwise, store in the refrigerator’s vegetable crisper on the lowest humidity setting up to two to three weeks. Do not store whole lemons in a plastic bag, she advised. Cut lemons last about two to three days in an airtight container.
Get juiced
Even though just one half cup of lemon juice delivers all the recommended daily dose of vitamin C, lemons are one of those foods like rhubarb and onions that most people don’t eat all by itself or strictly for its health benefits.
Much of the lemon’s flavor is utilized through its heavenly scented zest and juice.
The mere addition of a lemon peel can bring a heady aroma to plain glass of water. Just make sure to twist the peel over the glass to release its full aroma.
Kaehler offered this tip: be careful when adding lemon juice to cream as it may curdle.
“In sauces that call
for lemon or an acid, you can add a little cornstarch before as an insurance policy so it doesn’t curdle. Also, you can always add the zest of a lemon instead if you want the flavor but not the acidity,” she said.
When using zest, wash lemons in warm water prior to grating to remove any residue or wax, or purchase organic. It’s also much easier to first zest, then juice, a lemon.
Often, the appealing lemon’s real benefit is enhancing other foods. In other words, it’s a great sidekick with a long list of potential pairing possibilities.
Swoon-worthy lemon combinations include peach, blueberry, strawberry, raspberry, blackberry, cranberry, watermelon, artichoke, date, coconut, bell pepper, cauliflower, avocado, garlic, chicken, seafood, vanilla, almond, cilantro, mint, thyme, oregano, lavender, ginger, poppy seed, butter, white and dark chocolate and mild cheeses.
Even though the lemon’s culinary powers impress, a homemade glass of icy lemonade on a scorching day is one of summer’s simpler pleasures.
If you’ve never tasted fresh lemonade, what are you waiting for? No powdered mix, no concentrates, no prepackaged drinks, just old-fashioned lemonade made in your own kitchen.
Brambleberry Winery and Country Inn in Taylor serves homemade lemonade to its guests in the summer. Sherry Hardie, who owns the inn with her husband, Chris, said guests enjoy it on the porch in rocking chairs overlooking their creek and pasture.
“It’s almost embarrassingly simple,” she said of the recipe.
But who wants complicated in summer?
Winters in Wisconsin are long, so enjoy those sunny lemon favorites while you can and remember to wear your shades.