Milwaukee Journal Sentinel

Fresh corn adds a welcome twist, from appetizer to dessert

- Terri Milligan is a chef, culinary instructor and food writer. Contact her at chefterrim­illigan @gmail.com.

TERRI MILLIGAN SPECIAL TO THE JOURNAL SENTINEL Corn-on-the-cob is one of the most anticipate­d foods of late summer and early fall. Those knee-high plants by the Fourth of July are now tall stalks with ears ready for picking and eating. ♦ There are not many of us who say “no thank you” to a slightly charred fresh ear of corn slathered in butter right off the grill.

Crazy for corn

The United States is kind of corn crazy. We celebrate the golden-colored kernels not only by eating them, but also by naming things after them. There are the Nebraska Cornhusker­s and the not-to-be missed Corn Palace, the South Dakota landmark made completely of corn. And if you are driving through Alabama, don’t miss a stop at the town of Burnt Corn, home to the Civil War’s Battle at Burnt Corn.

Though corn seems as American as apple pie, corn was first cultivated in Mexico more than 7,000 years ago. The vegetable originated from a wild grass called teosinte.

From Mexico, corn — also known as maize — spread north into the southwest of the United States. Early uses of corn included roasting or boiling the ears, but the majority of the kernels were dried and crushed into cornmeal that could be stored and used yearround.

Corn off the cob

Don’t limit your corn consumptio­n to just eating it straight off the cob. It’s time to give that corn a shuck and transform it into everything from soup to entrée and even to dessert.

Soups make the perfect landing spot for tender corn kernels. But don’t toss out those naked cobs. Break them in half and add them to vegetable or chicken stock (homemade or a goodqualit­y purchased nosalt-added product) for extra flavor. Strain through a sieve and your corn stock is ready.

Opt out of a rouxbased soup by using potatoes instead to thicken the soup. Celery, onions, corn and potatoes are simmered in the strained corn stock and then pureed to make a smooth, velvety bisque. Add some chipotle peppers packed in adobe sauce and smoked paprika for an added kick of flavor.

Give the soup a restaurant-quality garnish with a drizzle of purchased chile-infused olive oil. A quick splash is all that’s needed.

Ancient grain meets ancient maize

Given corn’s long history, it seems a perfect culinary fit to pair it with farro, an ancient Italian grain. Loaded with protein and fiber, this nutty grain has a history dating back to the Fertile Crescent and the Ancient Roman Empire. The legions of the Roman Empire were regularly fed farro, often ground into a meal and made into a dish similar to polenta. Royals also dined on the grain, which was given the nickname “pharaoh’s wheat” in Egypt.

Modern-day uses of farro include adding it to everything from breakfast porridges and salads to dishes usually made with rice, including risotto. Try making this risotto-like farro dish flavored with sautéed wild mushrooms, fresh corn and earthy fresh sage.

If you have leftover corn stock, use it as the liquid base. For added creaminess and a touch of tang, stir in a small amount of fresh goat cheese at the end.

When shopping for farro, look for packages marked semi-pearled. The grain is very hard and can take time to cook. Semi-pearled varieties — referred to as semiperlat­o in Italian — have had some of the outer bran removed or cracked, allowing for speedier cooking.

Shrimp meets corn

The subtle taste of fresh sweet corn blends well with many proteins. Shrimp and corn, for example, form a delicious union.

Combine cooked shrimp, corn, shallots and a bit of garlic with a few eggs, cornmeal and flour to bind the mixture. The use of baking powder makes the dish a bit more like a fritter than a traditiona­l seafood cake.

Save a few shrimp to sauté and serve as a regal topper for these delicate savory cakes that can be served as either an appetizer or an entrée.

Corn for dessert

Sweet corn is a classic ice cream flavor in Latin American cultures. A touch of vanilla combined with the sweetness of the corn flavors a traditiona­l ice cream base of whole milk, cream and eggs. Use those corn cobs again to elevate the corn flavor in the ice cream base.

Process the mixture in an ice cream maker and freeze for several hours before serving.

Use some of those fresh blueberrie­s you just picked up at the local farmers market to create the perfect topper for this colorful, delicious late-summer treat.

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