From computers to cows: Cheesemaker changed path
If Terry Woods has his way, he’ll never retire. He’s taught scuba diving. He’s worked with computers, and sold his company in 1996. He’s learned to fly airplanes and helicopters. He’s a beekeeper. And two years ago, he became a licensed cheesemaker in Wisconsin.
Woods and his wife of 43 years, Denise, lived on an old dairy farm for decades but never milked a cow. So he bought one and started milking by hand.
That was the start of Highfield Farm Creamery, W4854 State Line Road, Walworth, where the couple now run the state’s smallest milking parlor and sell handcrafted curds and cave-aged cheeses, including summer and winter cheddars and washed-rind varieties. They recently added private tours and tastings at the creamery, which opens Saturdays and Sundays for the season around June and closes Dec. 31. In season, you’ll also find Woods at the Fontana Farmers Market.
Computers to cows
I worked in computers. I started my own company. When our daughter was born, we said we can’t raise her in California. She was born in the valley. I knew her first word was going to be “Totally!” We put the company up for sale, moved to the Midwest. I started looking at land here, and the Realtor showed me this, as my daughter calls it, “derelict dairy farm.” It hadn’t had cows on it for probably 30 years.
Small-scale start
I grew up in Ohio. I didn’t grow up on a farm; my father was a fireman. I don’t know why, but I always wanted to milk a cow. I bought a cow while my wife was out of town. She was thrilled.
We hand-milked. Then I learned to make cheese. I went on the internet and learned the only place you could learn to make cheese small scale was Scotland. I went in 2005.
First cheese he made
Cheese curds. When we were licensed by the state about two years ago, we could legally make cheese but all the cheese I wanted to make had to be aged. We had nothing to sell, so I made cheese curds. We opened Aug. 1, 2015, and invited friends and family to come eat curds.
Sizing up sales
We have five different kinds of cheese right now, and a few more in the cave. I want to sell to the end user. We do very little wholesale. We sell to Pearce’s Farm Stand, (W5740 N. Walworth Road, Walworth) and at The Cheese Box, (801 S. Wells St., Lake Geneva).
Becoming a cheesemaker
It was an interesting thing to do. That’s how I get into anything. When I lived in California I had an airplane and learned to fly. When I got to the Midwest, I bought a helicopter and learned to fly that. I don’t do anything long-term. I move on. We’ve had cattle, we raised sheep, pigs. I go through “stages” as my wife calls them.
Learning and licensing
Wisconsin cheesemakers have to be licensed, the only place in the world that requires a license. … You have to take classes, which is a great idea. They have an upper window into the dairy plant at (UW-Madison’s) Babcock Hall. I noticed a guy making cheese. I didn’t know why I couldn’t get my hours making cheese with that guy. He told me to talk to the boss. Bob Bradley was in charge. I think he was shocked to find out I wasn’t 20. Most of the people learning to make cheese are young.
He said, “I understand you want to know why you can’t make cheese with Gary Grosen our cheesemaker? There’s a really simple reason. No one’s ever asked.” He said I had to apply to the university, “Apply with your student number to this class number and once you’ve registered call us and we’ll close it because you’re the only student.” That’s a standard program now.
Starting small
I went to visit creameries all over the country. I found the best equipment made for a small place was made in Amsterdam, so I went to Amsterdam. I would’ve liked to buy Wisconsin equipment, but in Wisconsin if you can’t swim laps in a vat it is not considered a real vat. We have the smallest milking parlor in the state of Wisconsin. We milk two cows at a time.
Cows and curds
We’re milking 10 cows right now, and that’s probably where we’re going to be. We only have 30 acres here. I sold off the rest of the property. We were going to do 16 (cows) originally, but then we’d have to make cheese more times during the week, and it is just my wife and I. We just don’t want to do that. We make cheese twice a week, and Thursday is curd day.
Different by design
We have a totally different way of operating. This isn’t a money-making scheme. The return on investment will never break even, but it is interesting.
A couple weeks ago we decided to try making cheese three days a week: Monday, Wednesday and Friday. It was a pain in the neck, so we went back to two days. We could make more cheese but we had no time.
Fun on the farm
We used to do cheese tastings at the local high school, and last year we moved it to our creamery. Then people can bring wine, and those are a lot of fun. We did five last year and they all sold out.
Expansion ahead
We’re planning on adding on to the house, an old 1914 Sears house, from a kit of sorts. I’ve owned it for 32 years, and I’m the longest owner.
Not ready to retire
I am never going to retire. I’m already thinking of my next project. Maybe a brewery, or a beekeeping business. I’m a beekeeper in my spare time, and we sell the honey.
Fork. Spoon. Life. explores the everyday relationship that local notables (within the food community and without) have with food. To suggest future personalities to profile, email nstohs@journalsentinel.com.