Peach of a cake hails from Baltimore
Inspiration for Tallgrass Kitchen recipes and columns come from many places. It may be what’s in season at the markets, an article I read, a trend I notice on Pinterest or a conversation I had with a chef, farmer or friend.
The motivation for this topic came from a dear college friend with whom I had the pleasure of dining during a quick trip to New York City. As we nibbled on a shared plate of grilled peaches, ricotta salata and toasted sourdough bread, drizzled with balsamic vinegar, he told me of a recent trip to Maryland. He had come home loaded with ripe peaches, and told me that Maryland used to be a hub of peach production.
He had been intrigued by a recipe called “Baltimore Peach Cake.” Because it called for yeast — and he “doesn’t have time for yeast” — he opted for a simpler peach buckle recipe instead.
But I do have time for yeast, so I dug in.
This is one of those community recipes with lots of history. Although it’s named for Baltimore, it has German roots. This is the kind of recipe that grandmothers argue about, each claiming theirs is the best. Variations are slight — glaze or no glaze, dusting of cinnamon or not — but if you have a family recipe, then by all means use it.
The foundation ingredients are the same: a yeasted, slightly sweet dough adorned with the season’s juiciest peaches. Simple, but perfect, and a great way to welcome kids home from school. They’ve been summering for so long, they deserve something special as their bodies acclimate to school and homework.
Maryland was indeed a prolific peach producer in the early 20th century. Farming data from the USDA census showed about 24 million pounds produced in 1940. By 1980 it was down to 19 million, and then challenging weather in 1985 caused many peach orchards to close or switch to another crop. That year the harvest was about 6 million, and that’s what it still was in 2012.
And while you can grow peaches in Wisconsin, the state has never been a major player on the peach scene. For comparison’s sake, census data shows that in 2012, Georgia had more than 12,000 acres of peach orchards, Maryland had just shy of 1,000, and Wisconsin showed 31 acres (second to last only to Wyoming, which had 3 acres).
And while the season is wrapping up, you can still find a few peaches at farmers markets (most are brought in from Door County) or Georgia peaches at the grocery store. Brennan’s, a local Wisconsin grocery chain that will be closing Sept. 30, always carries peaches that are in great condition, and as of this writing they are well-stocked with fruit.
Look for peaches that are ripe — there should be a little give near the top. Buy an extra to enjoy on its own, with a napkin to catch the juices from your chin. And bake the rest into the famous Baltimore peach cake.
Anna Thomas Bates is a mother and writer living in southern Wisconsin. Email her at