Tuck that grilled tilapia in a taco
Fish tacos hit my radar in the late ’80s, popping up in beachside spots in San Diego. Though popular on the West Coast, I couldn’t imagine them finding a home in the Midwest.
How times have changed. Fish tacos are, if not everywhere, then almost everywhere.
Much as I love them today, I’m not a big fan of the battered, deep-fried version of fish that serves as the mainstay for most of these tacos. Why would you drop what amounts to delicate fish into a vat of hot oil? Wouldn’t pan-fried fish, sans batter, be better?
Turns out there’s yet another alternative: grilled. In this recipe, it’s tilapia, but it could be walleye or any mild-flavored fish — or even shrimp, which I have to say makes a fine substitute.
Whichever is used, a light dusting of spices makes a difference before the protein is finished over a hot fire, then topped with ranch dressing and a radicchio slaw. Substitute any white-fleshed skinless fish fillet or grilled shrimp for the tilapia, if you prefer. Not a fan of ranch dressing? Use a vinaigrette or seasoned mayonnaise of your choice. The recipe is from “Williams-Sonoma Grill School” by Andrew Schloss and David Joachim.
Grilled Tilapia Tacos Makes 4 servings
1⁄4 cup canola oil or other mild vegetable oil 1 tablespoon chile powder or Mexican seasoning blend 1 teaspoon ground cumin 1 jalapeño chile, finely chopped 1 teaspoon fine sea salt
1 pound tilapia fillet 8 corn or flour tortillas 1 cup ranch dressing (commercial or homemade) 2 cups radicchio slaw (see recipe) or other coleslaw 1 avocado, pitted, peeled and diced Note: You will need to make the slaw in advance. Heat grill for medium-high direct heat (425 to 450 degrees).
In wide, flat bowl, combine oil, chile powder, cumin, jalapeño and salt and mix well.
Cut each fillet down its centerline, dividing it into thicker and thinner sections. Toss fish pieces in chile oil mixture, coating them evenly, and set aside in mixture for 15 minutes.
Set a grill screen on grill and coat with oil. Place the thicker fish pieces on screen and cook, turning once, until opaque all around the edges, about 3 minutes per side. Cook thinner pieces the same way, but for only about 2 minutes per side. Transfer fish to a platter and keep warm. Remove grill screen.
Lightly coat tortillas on both sides with vegetable oil spray and brown directly over the fire, turning once, until grill-marked and flexible, about 20 seconds per side. Wrap tortillas in clean kitchen towel to keep warm.
To serve, invite diners to assemble their own tacos, piling a fish fillet, splash of dressing, a pile of slaw and some avocado on each tortilla.
Per serving: 640 calories, 38g carbohydrates, 28g protein, 43g fat (5g saturated), 55mg cholesterol, 1,150mg sodium, 7g fiber.
Either prepare this in advance on the grill, or consider making the slaw without grilling it first, or it’s a lot of last-minute effort at the grill that doesn’t significantly make a difference. The recipe is adapted from “Williams-Sonoma Grill School.”
Radicchio Slaw Makes 4 to 6 servings
2 heads of radicchio, cut into wedges about 1⁄2 inch thick
1 beet, peeled and cut into slices 1⁄2 inch thick (optional, if not grilling)
A few slices of a fresh pineapple, peeled and 1⁄2 inch thick
1⁄4 cup plus 1 1⁄2 tablespoons canola oil or other mild vegetable oil
3 tablespoons vinegar (white wine or red, as you prefer)
1 teaspoon fine sea salt
1⁄2 teaspoon freshly ground pepper
Heat grill for medium-high direct heat (425 to 450 degrees).
Brush grill grate and coat with oil. Coat radicchio, beet and pineapple slices with the 1 1⁄2 tablespoons oil. Put all slices on grate and cook, turning once, until grill-marked and slightly softened, about 1 minute per side for radicchio and 4 minutes per side for beet and pineapple. Transfer all to a cutting board and let cool 10 minutes.
In serving bowl, whisk together remaining 1⁄4 cup oil, the vinegar, salt and pepper to make dressing.
Cut the grilled vegetables and pineapple into julienne strips, making them as thin as possible. Add to bowl with dressing and toss to coat evenly. Set aside for 10 minutes before serving. The coleslaw can be stored in an airtight container in refrigerator up to 5 days.
Per serving (figuring 6): 130 calories, 4g carbohydrates, 1g protein, 13g fat (1g saturated), no cholesterol, 405mg sodium, 1g fiber.