Wine tasting dinner.
Invite a few of your friends over and let them know they’ll be drinking wine out of brown paper bags.
It’s not a tacky proposition — it’s a dinner party for six centered upon a simple blind tasting where guests guess which wine is which.
This kind of comparison happens frequently at my house because, as a wine columnist, I always have samples around begging to be tasted. So I pour splashes of this and that — without showing the bottles — to see what people like best.
It’s edifying to match up an expensive wine against a bargain. Or pour a Napa Cab alongside one from Sonoma.
For advice and inspiration, I turned to Katie Espinosa, multiunit director for the Bartolotta group of restaurants and an intrepid wine taster.
She recently passed the Advanced Sommelier exam through the Court of Master Sommeliers and is now studying to become a Master Sommelier. (The only other person in Wisconsin at this level is Andres Medina, general manager at Cento in Madison.)
For the blind tasting portion of the exam, she describes being presented with six glasses of wine: three reds and three whites. She then had 25 minutes to “assess the wines” while sitting across from a trio of master sommeliers who were listening to and rating her analyses.
But no worries, this kind-hearted expert has something less nerve-racking in mind for you.
“For a casual blind tasting, give people some idea of what’s in their glasses, so they’re not tasting completely blind,” she suggested. “And keep it low-key and uncomplicated. Wine can be intimidating, but the idea here is to have fun, find out what you like.”
A clue might be, for example, that the two mystery wines include “a flamboyant and tropical” New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc and a “more linear” French Sauvignon Blanc, she said.
For the dinner party suggested here, the tasting theme is French vs. California. Specifically, it’s Chardonnay — one from each locale — served with the starters and then two opposing Pinot Noirs served with the main course.
Espinosa calls these “classic comparisons” where riper, fruitier and often oakier California wines contrast with typically more restrained French wines.
When shopping, remember that French wines are usually labeled by region, not by grape. And Burgundy or “Bourgogne” is the region in France that makes its reds out of Pinot Noir — so that’s what to look for. Choices start at about $15 a bottle.
On the white side, Chablis is a French region famed for its unoaked Chardonnay. These wines, according to Espinosa, will give you the most obvious contrast to a Chardonnay from Napa or Sonoma. Other French Chards, such as PouillyFuissé or Macon-Villages, are “more similar to California” but will still provide a good stylistic comparison. Again, expect prices from about $15 on up.
Head to one of the better wine shops in town for the most knowledgeable staff and most interesting selection.
And don’t feel you have to spring for all the wines. When your guests ask what they can bring, assign them a bottle of wine. So for one couple you might ask for an under-$20 California Chardonnay and from the other couple a comparable example from France. Then you, as host, would provide the two Pinot Noirs.
At a recent trial-run at my house, I put the two Chardonnays in brown bags and brought them to the table. But for the main course, I decanted the reds and put the decanters on the table. (You can use any kind of pitcher as a decanter, no need for anything fancy.)
This wine-friendly menu starts with Roasted Golden Beet and Carrot Dip,
which is geared to the Chards. Serve it with a couple of other simple hors d’oeuvres, perhaps a bowl of olives and a wedge of brie.
The main course is Cuban Braised Pork Shoulder, not pretty, but richly flavorful and terrific with the Pinot Noirs. Serve with side dishes that add some color to the plate such as red-skinned potatoes and green beans.
For dessert, it’s warm Apple and Dried Cherry Crisp, which probably goes best with a cup of decaf. But if you want to keep things flowing, Espinosa suggests an off-dry bubbly such as a sparkling Moscato.
At the end of the evening, if you’re like me, you’ll decide to wash the wine glasses in the morning.