Falling for PASTA
Autumn is perfect season for the Italian classic
Pasta is one of those ingredients that has no season. Delicate peas, asparagus and wild ramps are welcome additions in spring. Come summer, pasta dishes are speckled with brightly colored tomatoes, pea pods and zucchini and crowned with justpicked basil leaves. As autumn and winter roll in, pasta transforms itself into the ultimate comfort food. As you shop for your favorite fall veggies, take a turn down the pasta aisle to expand your noodle knowledge. You’ll be greeted by unusual names like orecchiette, campanelle and pappardelle. Then there are the ever-expanding gluten-free options made with everything from red lentils to quinoa. Don’t be afraid of the names. Pasta is pasta. Whatever the name or ingredient base, all pastas are cooked in water flavored with salt. Only the cooking time varies. Just follow the instructions on the box or bag.
Kick-start your autumn pasta cooking with one of these three comforting dishes. Each recipe suggests a certain type of pasta, but don’t be afraid to experiment.
Pick the right pasta
Begin by selecting the right pasta type. If your dish has a smooth tomato sauce, pesto or light cream sauce, select a longer pasta like spaghetti, fettuccine or angel hair. The long strands lend themselves to sauces that lightly coat.
Are you preparing a recipe that has a chunky meat sauce or has roasted vegetables and nuts? Look for a pasta with an interesting shape and ridges, like spiral fusille, ear-shaped orecchiette or lily-shaped campanelle. Chopped nuts, pieces of meat and roasted vegetables will rest comfortably in the nooks and crannies of these smaller pastas.
Tubular pasta like rigatoni and penne cook up to larger volumes than their non-tubular counterparts. Because they’re filled with air in the middle, the serving size appears larger, which may trick your brain into thinking you are eating more than you actually are. Try these when you’re making richer dishes like baked ziti or macaroni and cheese.
One-pan pasta
What’s better than a steaming bowl of your favorite pasta on a chilly autumn day? A steaming one-pot pasta dish made in that trusty cast-iron pan you’ve been waiting to put back into service all summer.
Penne pasta is a perfect choice. The noodles are large enough to hold up to the low simmer of a stovetop dish. Plus, the ridges are designed to grab onto whatever sauce they are thrown in to. Select a red lentil penne pasta for a gluten-free 30-minute meal .
Before leaving the store, pick up a rotisserie chicken. The moist meat from that just-roasted bird gets added to the pasta along with chopped tomatoes and a blend of spices and herbs.
Fall produce mix up
Autumn brings some of the most delicious yet underrated produce offerings. Enter the brussels sprout. For years these tiny cabbage-shaped beauties got a bad rap. In recent years, they’ve come into their own, starring in everything from shaved salads to roasted vegetable mash-ups.
This simple pasta toss combines thinly shaved brussels sprouts and slivered fennel bulb. Add color and a hint of salt by tossing in some sliced prosciutto.
This sauce-free dish relies only on a light coating of extra-virgin olive oil. Splurge and buy a top-quality oil with a full fruit flavor. For the pasta, try something different like pappardelle. This wide long pasta is elegant when presented on the plate and a favorite of high-end restaurants.
A final dusting of bread crumbs pan-roasted in some of that delicious olive oil is the perfect toasty crown for this elegant dish.
Classic with a twist
Update a classic pasta dish with a new twist. Pasta e ceci is an Italian favorite. This simple pasta dish highlights the two main ingredients: pasta and chickpeas.
Add a depth of texture by roasting half the chickpeas while using the remainder as a base for the dish’s sauce. Be sure to dry the chickpeas thoroughly before roasting to ensure perfect crispiness on the outside, while the chickpea is creamy inside.
Small ear-shaped orecchiette is just right for holding onto this deliciously chunky sauce, made with the smashed chickpeas, lemon and Parmesan. Sweet smoked paprika provides an earthy flavor. For a touch of spice, add a generous pinch of red chile flakes. Finely chopped fresh rosemary and Italian parsley finish this dish.
Terri Milligan is a professional chef and culinary instructor who lives in Door County and Phoenix. For additional recipes, visit chefterrimilligan.com.