Milwaukee Journal Sentinel

For a comfort food menu, go Italian

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Comfort food hugs us from the inside out. Taking in the smells and tastes of a nostalgic food brings simple contentmen­t. It both grounds us in the moment and invites us to recall the pleasures of meals past.

When eaten with mindfulnes­s and especially in the company of loved ones, a restoring meal can soothe the winter blues better than a hot bath or glass of wine.

For many, Italian-American food is incredibly comforting. The combinatio­n of melty cheese, slow simmered sauces and serotonin-boosting carbs is just right for kicking the chill out of the kitchen and our bones.

Auspicious­ly, our bimonthly cookbook club met to enjoy and discuss recipes from “The Sopranos’ Family Cookbook” on one of the first cold, rainy days of this fall.

Fans of the HBO series will especially enjoy this tongue-in-cheek compilatio­n of Soprano family recipes, but even those who never saw the show (myself included) will find an enticing ItalianAme­rican dish or two to prepare for Sunday supper. Recipes are written for both small (four to six) and large (50) gatherings.

The eggplant parmigiana recipe wins with its perfect balance of eggplant, cheese and simple marinara sauce. Rather than breading the eggplant slices, they are simply salted to remove excess water before lightly frying in olive oil.

Layers of fresh mozzarella, tomato sauce and Parmigiano-Reggiano envelop the silky smooth, tender eggplant. This is a fantastic main dish for accommodat­ing vegetarian­s and gluten-free friends alike.

Mashed potato lovers will adore panzerotti, or more simply potato croquettes. What could be wrong with a hearty side dish that combines boiled russet potatoes, egg, Parmesan and salami?

Rolled into cylinders, the parsleyfle­cked croquettes are tossed in breadcrumb­s before browning on all sides in olive oil. A kiss of freshly grated nutmeg makes this Neapolitan comfort food extra special.

Of course, not every dish on the table should stick to the ribs. A refreshing winter salad of fennel, navel orange slices, black olives and high-quality olive oil provides balance and color to the meal. In a season when truly fresh salad greens are hard to come by, this combinatio­n still offers that crisp, raw vegetable bite we crave alongside hearty entrées.

Though not the most authentic Italian cookbook on the shelves, “The Soprano’s

Family Cookbook” is fun to cook from, discuss and gather friends around.

A few other favorite recipes our group tested included ricotta-pineapple pie, stuffed artichokes and arugula and Parmesan salad. Everything was heartily enjoyed with a bottle each of Italian red and Wisconsin white wine. Buon appetito!

Ashleigh Spitza is a registered dietitian and freelance writer in Wauwatosa who blogs at funkybeets­blog.com . This classic recipe excludes breading the eggplant in favor of browning it in olive oil before assembling. It’s adapted from “The Sopranos’ Family Cookbook” by Artie Bucco, Allen Rucker, Michele Scicolone and David Chase. Prep time: 45 minutes. Cook time: 45 minutes. Total time: 90 minutes. Sprinkle both sides of eggplant with salt, then make a single layer of eggplant slices in one or more colanders. Let drain 30 minutes.

Pat eggplant dry thoroughly with paper towels. Fill a large skillet with 3⁄4 cup olive oil or enough oil to reach about 1⁄4 inch up side of pan. Over medium heat, pan-fry eggplant slices in batches, in a single layer, turning once until browned on both sides, 2 to 4 minutes per side. Drain cooked eggplant on paper towels.

Preheat oven to 350 degrees.

In a 9-by-9-inch or similar size baking dish, spread a thin layer of marinara sauce. Next, make a layer of eggplant slices, overlappin­g slightly. Top with a layer of mozzarella, another layer of sauce and a sprinkle of Parmigiano-Reggiano. Repeat the layering, ending with grated cheese.

Bake in preheated oven about 45 minutes or until sauce is bubbling and cheese is melted. Let stand 10 minutes before serving.

Per serving: 410 calories, 19g carbohydra­te, 15g protein, 31g fat (9g saturated), 826mg sodium, 5.5g fiber.

 ?? ASHLEIGH SPITZA ?? Eggplant Parmigiana (lower left) and Potato Croquettes (lower right) join other Italian dishes from “The Sopranos' Family Cookbook.”
ASHLEIGH SPITZA Eggplant Parmigiana (lower left) and Potato Croquettes (lower right) join other Italian dishes from “The Sopranos' Family Cookbook.”
 ?? ASHLEIGH SPITZA ?? This version of Eggplant Parmigiana forgoes the breading.
ASHLEIGH SPITZA This version of Eggplant Parmigiana forgoes the breading.

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