Isan Bbq Chicken Gai Ping (Gai Yang)
Barbecue chicken is everywhere on the streets and in the markets of Isan (Thailand), James Syhabout writes in “Hawker Fare.”
“You can smell it from afar, like a smoke signal commanding you to come and eat,” he writes. “Chicken, roasted or barbecued, just spells comfort. It’s easy and delicious. And with gai yang, sticky rice and tum som, you’ve got a complete meal.”
Makes 8 to 10 servings
Brine:
1 gallon water
1⁄2 cup kosher salt
1⁄2 cup granulated sugar
2 whole chickens (about 2 1⁄2 pounds each), split in half, backs removed
Marinade:
1⁄4 cup thinly sliced lemongrass
2 tablespoons peeled garlic cloves
1⁄4 cup cilantro root or stems
1 teaspoon coriander seeds
1 tablespoon yellow curry powder
1/8 teaspoon MSG (optional)
2 tablespoons oyster sauce
1 tablespoon fish sauce
2 tablespoons canola oil
1⁄2 tablespoon kosher salt
Brine the chicken: In a large pot, combine the water, salt and sugar. Bring to a boil to dissolve the sugar and salt, then turn off heat and let brine cool completely. Transfer to a container large enough to hold both chickens and fit in the fridge. Add chickens to brine and refrigerate 24 hours.
Marinate chicken: In a mortar, pound the lemongrass, garlic, cilantro root or stems and coriander seeds to a paste. Stir in curry powder, MSG, if using, oyster sauce, fish sauce, oil and salt and mix well.
Remove chicken halves from brine and drain well; transfer to a large mixing bowl. Add marinade and toss to coat. Marinate, refrigerated, at least 8 hours, but no more than 16.
Cook the meat: Preheat a grill to low, using gas, charcoal or wood. Grill the chicken halves over low heat, flipping and watching carefully — it will take about 1 hour. To help with even heating and creating a sort of hot smoker, you can cover the chicken with a lid as it cooks. To tell if the chicken is done, check the color of the flesh between the thigh and the breast: The juices should run clear and the meat should look opaque. Once done, the chickens can be hacked through the bones with a Chinese cleaver.