Milwaukee Journal Sentinel

Von Trier reopens after remodeling

- Carol Deptolla Milwaukee Journal Sentinel

After some on-again, off-again proposed changes, the longtime German bar Von Trier on the east side is reopening after remodeling and bringing back a menu of German food.

It’s reopening, however, without the new operators that were announced in October.

Von Trier held a soft opening Friday. The grand reopening party is Thursday.

Owners John and Cindy Sidoff said last summer that they wanted to turn Von Trier, 2235 N. Farwell Ave., into a midcentury-style cocktail lounge. That announceme­nt was met with disappoint­ment from east side residents and others, some of whom started a petition to keep Von Trier a German-themed bar.

Wes Shaver and Mike Sorge, who own Black Sheep and Love Shack in Walker’s Point, approached the Sidoffs about keeping the bar’s German motif, taking over its operation and making improvemen­ts.

That partnershi­p fell apart, but the Sidoffs continued with the plans to keep the bar as Von Trier and to make upgrades — a new sound system, new lighting, a new mahogany bar top, eight draft lines for wines, new chairs and tabletops, and updated restrooms.

“It was just too hard for me to give up the control over this big of a project,” John Sidoff said. “They’re great guys.”

Shaver said, “The opportunit­y to work with John and be a part (albeit small) of Von Trier’s history is very meaningful. The conversati­ons Mike, John and I had led to the ‘saving’ of Von Trier from a concept change, and although we aren’t involved in the day-to-day operations, we’re happy our influence led John to keeping Von Trier as Von Trier — and that’s pretty damn special.”

The bar’s Tiffany-style lights, which Sidoff said didn’t suit the German decor, have been swapped out for new lighting, and track lighting now illuminate­s wood carvings that before were difficult to see, Sidoff said.

“With the new lighting, it just looks really nice and updated. For a dark German bar, it looks as bright as it can,” Sidoff said.

He added that he’s considerin­g selling the antler-and-wrought-iron chandelier by 20th-century craftsman Cyril Colnik that hangs in the Von Trier back room. Sidoff would like to sell it to the Pabst Mansion, where it is originally from.

“It kind of deserves to be seen in a more historic setting with better viewpoints to it. You just can’t appreciate the workmanshi­p of the thing, sitting in a dark bar,” Sidoff said.

At the party Thursday, the bar will have a ceremonial tapping at 5 p.m. of Hofbräu Dunkel lager. The bar will hand out free drafts of the lager and have a spread of items from its new menu for customers to try.

The new menu will have items to share, such as soft pretzels and other appetizers, plus entrees, sandwiches, sausages, spätzle, burgers and salads.

“The city needs a place like this, with Ratzsch’s being gone,” Sidoff said, referring to the closing in 2017 of century-old Karl Ratzsch’s German restaurant. “It still needs some tradition.”

Von Trier will open at 3 p.m. Fridays to Sundays and 4 p.m. the rest of the week. Food will be served starting at 4 p.m. Friday to Sunday and 5 p.m. weekdays until 10 p.m.

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