Food and family drive hospitality group chef Moving to Milwaukee Finding his fit
Matt Kerley’s days can be divided into two categories: food and family.
Working through kitchens from Australia to North Carolina and San Francisco, Kerley made his way to Milwaukee in 2011, drawn by family and affordability.
Stints at Rumpus Room, Hinterland and Blue Jacket gave him insight into Milwaukee appetites, and last fall he was named culinary director for Stand. Eat. Drink. A Hospitality Group. The new role includes overseeing menus and kitchens at Hotel Madrid, 600 S. 6th St. (Bodegon, Vermuteria 600), Movida, 524 S. 2nd St., and Jake’s Deli, 1634 W. North Ave.
Kerley lives in Bay View with his wife and son, and on his days off he can usually be found at the dog park.
In the beginning
My folks were missionaries, and I was born in Australia. My family is from the Carolinas, and I’d been there since I was 10. I wanted to move away, so I moved across the country, started going to San Francisco State. While in school, I realized I love cooking. I was bored with research projects. Before you knew, it, I was a chef de cuisine for a 3 1⁄2-star restaurant in the financial district. I loved it, and it fueled my fire.
Like most stories that involve moving across the country, I met a girl, the mother of my 8-year-old. Her whole family is from Milwaukee, and we wanted him to be somewhere we had family. My siblings are scattered, some are in Europe. Plus, Milwaukee is more affordable.
His food roots
I’m the youngest of five, and for some reason I was always following my older siblings around. I was doing anything to get their attention. I learned early on that if I made little treats and snacks, I got it.
I was 10 or 11, and I had lasagna on the table and had the table set for my parents. It was noodles right out of the box, soaked in water, spaghetti sauce, and cheese that wasn’t even melted. But looking back, that is one of my first memories of wanting to create food for people. That expression of love and gratitude for people through food, it showed itself at an early age.
I came here from San Francisco. … I opened Rumpus Room, that was a blast. Then this opened up, and I am just thrilled to be working with Stand Eat Drink (Hospitality Group). What is so great about this opportunity is I can still be that line cook, but I also get to remove myself from that when needed to dictate the outcome of the restaurant.
I have a chef de cuisine at Hotel Madrid, a lead cook at Jake’s. I meet with my chefs one on one at least once a week. I absolutely miss it the days when I don’t cook.
Current cravings
We have this Iberian pork tenderloin, and we serve it with sauteed clams, spinach, chorizo, garbanzo beans and harissa sauce, a north African spice blend. That’s a must-have and my new favorite dish here (at Hotel Madrid). We just recently revamped Movida and rewrote the menu in March. There’s a scallop dish there, just fantastic.
Hidden hot spot
Our wine cellar (at Hotel Madrid), we put up wine racks and we can sit up to 35 comfortably down there for dinner. We mostly use it for private event space. We’d like to throw some awesome seasonal wine dinners down there. We just had a large Don Quixote mural painted down there, and it feels very exclusive.
Big on breakfast
During my workweek, my meal at home is breakfast. By the time I get home, it is 9 p.m.; I’m usually in bed by 10 p.m. My go-to breakfast is a big bowl of mixed berries, maybe some yogurt, and some scrambled eggs.
On Sundays, either before or after Mass, we may go get a big brunch, all the fun things. There’s a pupuceria we frequent (El Salvador Restaurant, 2316 S. 6th St.).
Always in his kitchen
My knives, for sure. I literally have a roll I take with me from restaurant to restaurant. As far as cooking, I always have to have a shallot brunoise. I think shallots are a really great aromatic I can work into any dish to give a base level flavor.
Feeding his family
When I make a dinner at home, it is me who cooks. My wife is a great cook, but she likes to stay out of the kitchen. I’ll roast a chicken, brine it the day before, cover it in lemons and thyme add some roasted potatoes and add some broccoli. All the healthy stuff a family needs.
His day off
On Sundays, I’m out with the family, probably at the dog park. Or my kid and I are on the bike or the skateboard. If it’s nice out, we’re outside. If not, we’re playing Mario Kart. We also go camping as much as we can in summer. On Mondays, I get the house clean while everyone is working or in school, and I go to the gym, then eat my face off with tacos. Fork. Spoon. Life. explores the everyday relationship that local notables (within the food community and without) have with food. To suggest future personalities to profile, email nstohs@journalsentinel.com.