Milwaukee Journal Sentinel

Fall-plant bulbs were chilled over winter

- MELINDA MYERS

Question: I went to the Chicago garden show in mid-March and bought three Globemaste­r allium bulbs. Online it says to plant in fall. Any ideas on what to do with them now?

Answer: I also went to the show and came home with quite a few bulbs myself. These bulbs were prechilled, meaning the grower gave the bulbs the necessary cold period so they can be planted this spring and will bloom this season.

Until the soil is workable and you are able to plant them in the garden, keep the bulbs in a cool, dark location. If you purchase fall planted bulbs in the spring again, always check the signs or ask the vendor if they have received the necessary chill. Otherwise, you need to give them 15 weeks storage at 35 to 45 degrees to get them to bloom this season. Or, just store in a cool, dark place for summer and plant with other bulbs in the fall.

Q: I live in Brookfield and my lawn is growing in clay soil. It is uneven and hard to walk on. I fertilize in early spring, apply weed control in late May, feed again in late summer and use a winterizer in late November. Should I have it rolled? Should applicatio­ns of gypsum be considered? Appreciate any suggestion­s.

A: Pass on the gypsum. This only improves drainage in salt-laden soils. And don’t roll the lawn either. This practice causes more compaction on lawns growing in clay soils. Compaction impedes drainage and root growth, leading to a sparse, unhealthy lawn.

Consider core aerating the lawn and top-dressing with compost. Look for an aerator that breaks up the cores to help improve the soil and prevent more lumps.

Core aeration with compost helps improve drainage, increase organic matter in the soil and improve the health and vigor of your lawn. If this doesn’t work or you feel you need to do more, power-rake after core aerating. This helps break down the cores and smooth out the lumps. Rake off and compost any thatch you remove. Only do this when the grass is actively growing.

Q: I have a 15-year-old Big Daddy hydrangea that we planted on the west side of the house with good sunlight. We later planted it in a perennial patch underneath a maple tree. We have had no blooms on this plant since the first year.

We also have two Endless Summer hydrangeas on the east side of the house; they get good sunlight. … We used to get a lot of blooms on these two plants, but hardly any in the past three years. I have tried fertilizer­s with no results. Any suggestion­s?

A: Big Daddy and Endless summer are repeat blooming hydrangeas. They bloom on old growth if the stems with flower buds survive our winters. They are also supposed to flower on the current season’s growth.

Unfortunat­ely, they have not performed as well as most gardeners hoped. Keep the soil slightly moist and fertilize in spring with a lownitroge­n, slow-release fertilizer. I have had good success with Milorganit­e. Research shows when the microorgan­isms release the nutrients from the pellets, they also release some of the phosphorus and potassium bound to the soil. This makes these nutrients available to the plant.

Phosphorus promotes flowering and root growth, while potassium increases hardiness and disease resistance. If changing your fertilizat­ion practices doesn’t help, try moving the plants into a bit more sunlight. Or replace them with a panicle or Annabelle type hydrangea that flowers reliably. Quick Fire, Pinkie Winky, Vanilla Strawberry, Strawberry Sundae, Incredibal­l Blush and Invincibel­le Spirit II and Ruby are just a few varieties that will provide colorful flowers on hardy plants. Email questions to Melinda Myers through melindamye­rs.com, or write her at P.O. Box 798, Mukwonago, WI 53149. http://melindamye­rs.com/

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