Fresh asparagus kissed with hot bacon dressing
Who doesn’t love hot bacon dressing (besides vegetarians)?
Rendered bacon fat, a little shallot and some assertive mustard — it has umami in spades, plus a twang of vinegar and a kiss of sweetness. Typically it’s poured over spinach salad and served with eggs; in this dish greens are simply swapped out for spears of asparagus. The effect is no less delicious.
After writing an asparagus column each spring for the past six years, it was a little tricky to come up with a seventh. But I have a 75-foot asparagus bed on my property, so it was a personal challenge that I welcomed.
I’ve experimented with raw, shaved asparagus salads. I’ve eaten it luxuriously for breakfast with Camembert and eggs. I’ve created a spicy version, fried it up tempura-style, steamed it, sautéed it — you name it. Except for dessert (which was my husband’s suggestion for something original), if asparagus is involved, I’ve tried it.
For the record, the kids’ favorite was the tempura asparagus. As for me, I love pairing this spring vegetable with rich egg yolk, mayo dressings or cheese.
Asparagus has a grassy, assertive note that partners well with strong flavors. If you search on Pinterest, 85% of the results have garlic and/or lemon. As you scroll down, you see a few ginger/Asian influences and asparagus in a lot of egg and pasta dishes.
Spring asparagus season is another moment in the cycle of Wisconsin produce phenology — we wait for it anxiously, relish it initially and then eventually the bounty is so great that we’re overcome. This pattern starts with asparagus, continues with tomatoes, and then sweet corn and squash.
But asparagus is special. It arrives on the tail of a long winter and signals the official start of spring. Along with chives and rhubarb, this seasonal harbinger beckons the rest of the garden to come along and thrive.