‘Nothing pretentious’ about the food of this Green Bay chef
Jyll Everman’s entire cooking career began thanks to an ex-boyfriend and a competitive streak. She’s married with two kids now, well past the boyfriend. Her love of cooking, however, remains strong.
Everman grew up in Green Bay and made her way to southern California looking for new adventures. There she attended the Epicurean School of Culinary Arts and worked as a personal chef and caterer. She stepped into the national spotlight as a finalist on “Food Network Star,” Season 7, and she’s never looked back. (Chicago’s Jeff Mauro eventually won.)
Everman and her husband, Tommy, decided to move back to Green Bay with their sons, 2 and 4, to be closer to family. Two years ago, the couple opened Gather on Broadway in the historic Jones Motor Building, 139 N. Broadway, Green Bay.
Next up, Everman will be part of the Midwest Chefs lineup at the 18th annual Kohler Food & Wine Experience featuring Amanda Freitag, Marcus Samuelsson, Fabio Viviani plus Jack Bishop, Bridget Lancaster and Julia Collin Davison from “America’s Test Kitchen,” Oct. 18-21 at The American Club in Kohler.
Everman’s gnocchi demonstration for 1 p.m. Oct. 19 has already sold out. For additional schedule information and tickets, call (800) 3442838 or visit kohlerfoodandwine.com.
She will also be defending her title as Champion of the Big Brothers Big Sisters Chef Showdown, competing against other chefs in northeastern Wisconsin, on Nov. 8 in Green Bay.
Question: What put you on the path of cooking as a career?
Answer: Sadly, it was more of a revenge story. I dated a chef and when we broke up, I was very bitter and decided to be better at it than him.
Q: How did moving from Green Bay to California influence your cooking?
A: I was such a picky eater. I had no idea what an avocado was, an artichoke. I just flipped a switch. I tried everything.
OK, this weekend I’m going to Chinatown, somewhere they speak no English, and I’ll just point and order. Anthony Bourdain is famous for saying “Your body is not a temple, it’s an amusement park,” and I believe that.
Q: What’s the first recipe you really mastered?
A: It is not a recipe, but I had been a personal chef and (doing) catering. I decided I wanted to specialize in gourmet finger foods. I opened Jyllicious Bites, taking favorite foods and making them a super beautiful delicious bite. I loved it, and that was where I started getting a lot of work. I consider myself a bite-size specialist.
Q: What was it like to open a restaurant in Green Bay after cooking in California?
A: My husband is from LA. When we opened Gather, we had all these ideas of bringing fine dining and California cuisine to the old Jones building. We learned very quickly. … We have some of the best produce and some of the best meats here. Wisconsin is home to some of the best food in the country.
Q: How do you define your approach in the kitchen? A: I have a saying in the kitchen. Any time anyone asks me if something needs more salt or something, I say “MITG.” Make it taste good.
I am not a frou-frou chef who puts food on plates with tweezers. I look at local ingredients, seasonal ingredients, and make it taste good. There is nothing pretentious about my food.
Q: How did you come to be a part of “Food Network Star” Season 7?
A: It was a dare. My husband and my mom dared me for years to audition. I thought there’s no way they would choose me. You go through a lot of auditions.
I got the call and I was jumping up and down. Half an hour later I had a full panic attack, right there in the grocery store in the cheese aisle. Pure panic, and there was the cheese. Wisconsin was giving me a hug.
Q: What was your takeaway from being part of the show?
A: Filming was 2 1⁄2 months of my life, no phones, no televisions, no anything. It was intense.
I wouldn’t say I enjoyed it, but I learned so much. I learned how to be confident. I went in very nervous and learned quickly there is no room for that in this business. I learned how to defend my flavors. If Bobby Flay doesn’t like something I made, that’s OK. We don’t have the same palate.
Learning to be more confident and unapologetic about who I am and how I cook, that has helped me so much.
Q: What are you planning for the Food & Wine Experience at Kohler?
A: I have one demonstration, that is sold out already. I will be making gnocchi with three different kinds of sauces. I will just be returning from Italy. My husband and I are celebrating our 10-year anniversary there. I’m also doing the second course in the chef dinner, but I don’t know what I’m making yet.
My brother is doing a demonstration at Kohler, too. His name is Sean Moran, and he’s working with Belgioioso cheese. I keep teasing him because his session is not sold out, but mine is.
Table Chat features interviews with Wisconsinites, or Wisconsin natives, who work in restaurants or support the restaurant industry; or visiting chefs. To suggest individuals to profile, email nstohs@journal sentinel.com.