‘Black Panther’ costume designer still blazing a trail
LOS ANGELES — Ruth E. Carter is a black woman blazing a trail as a costume designer in a film industry with not many who look like her. But through her upcoming career achievement award and Oscar nomination for her Afro-futuristic wardrobes in the superhero film “Black Panther,” Carter believes she can “knock down” more doors so others like herself can walk through them.
If Carter wins an Oscar for best costume design at Sunday’s Academy Awards, she would be the first AfricanAmerican to win in the category.
“I’m a contender,” said Carter, who already won for “Black Panther’s” costumes at the Critics’ Choice Awards last month and was recently honored at New York Fashion Week.
“The designers are extremely talented designers, but I’m glad that I’m giving them a run for their money,” she added. “That’s how I feel . ... I feel empowered. I feel invigorated. I feel masterful.”
Carter, 58, also will be honored Tuesday for her career at the 21st annual Costume Designers Guild Awards.
“She is one of my favorite people,” said Danai Gurira, who starred in “Black Panther” as Okoye, one of kingdom of Wakanda’s elite warriors. “I’ve adored her from the minute I met her. She deserves all the honors in what she’s done and accomplished in her astounding work of beautiful integrity.”
In three decades, Carter has been behind-the-scenes in some of Hollywood’s biggest films. She’s earned Oscar nominations for her work in Spike Lee’s “Malcolm X” and Steven Spielberg’s “Amistad,” and received praise for her period ensembles in other projects such as Lee Daniels’ “The Butler,” Ava DuVernay’s “Selma” and the reboot of “Roots.” She’s created costumes for Oprah Winfrey, Denzel Washington, Eddie Murphy and even Jerry Seinfeld for the “Seinfeld” pilot.
Carter called the guild honor an “incredible achievement” for herself and others who desire to follow her footsteps.
“This award means so much to me,” she said. “I believe that I will stand on that stage and look out into the audience of young women and men that have careers in costume design that I helped foster. For that achievement, it means everything.”
Carter played an influential role as lead costume designer in making Ryan Coogler’s “Black Panther” a cultural phenomenon.
Carter drew inspiration for the movie’s costumes after traveling to Africa, speaking with people of the continent to understand the history of each artifact to ensure the different characteristics were represented properly in the film. She had help from her team of shoppers, illustrators and researchers, along with Marvel as the overseer.
“I’m very proud to have given these children a new superhero,” she said. “I’ve met young ladies that have built their costumes with their father and went into great detail about how each part was made. I just felt like there was a paradigm shift . ... We just wanted to do something positive that was impactful and meaningful for people.”
Carter, who got her start in 1988 on Lee’s “School Daze,” has worked with Robert Townsend on “The Five Heartbeats” and Keenen Ivory Wayans on “I’m Gonna Git You Sucka.” Her three decades of work led the way for others to follow.
“I’m glad that I’m out there as the one knocking down the doors,” said the designer, who is working on “Dolemite Is My Name,” starring Eddie Murphy. “As a black woman, I’m a trailblazer. Since I’m blazing a trail, I need some people on it. And that’s fine.”