Lakshmi’s new show is ‘a love letter to all of the immigrants’
Padma Lakshmi has spent decades in front of the camera. Her Twitter bio is simple, yet gives a peek into what drives her: Feminist. Mother. Immigrant. Host of Bravo TopChef.
Those factors all fueled her newest project: “Taste the Nation,” a new series premiering June 19 on Hulu. From the initial idea to filming and the final edits, Lakshmi spent a year exploring what we eat as a way to tell stories of immigration, assimilation, and what makes America today.
She came to America at age 4, an immigrant. “Taste the Nation” is a labor of love, highlighting stories and history she feels a need to explore.
Milwaukee and the city's German influences fill episode two, “The All American Wiener.” Lakshmi traverses the city in the Oscar Mayer Wienermobile, visits the smokehouse at Usinger's, makes wienerschnitzel at Kegel's Inn, and stops by German Fest. Milwaukee Pretzel Company, Lakefront Brewery, home brewing and Franklin's Routine Field all make appearances as she explores how beer, hot dogs and pretzels became quintessential American staples.
A former model who loves to eat and cook, she's been creating “quarantine cooking” videos during the pandemic from her home in New York — often with her daughter, Krishna, in the background. Find more at padmalakshmi.com.
Question: You studied theater arts, you’ve written cookbooks, a memoir. Did you plan on food and television as a career?
No, I did not. Certainly not when I was in college. I fell into the food industry by accident. I
always thought I was just a good cook, and that made me popular at dinner parties.
Q: Do you remember the first foods that helped you start expanding your palate and understanding of the possibilities of food?
Even when I was a toddler I was always tasting things in my grandmother and mother's pantry. When I was about 3 years old, I'd climb up the higher shelves where the spicy Indian pickles were kept. I'd get a bowl and spoon them out. When everyone was napping in the hot afternoon of south India, I'd break into the kitchen and eat those.
Q: In the introduction you ask “What exactly is American food?” By the end of the series what did you conclude?
That American food is all of these things: its one biggest tradition is it is ever evolving to incorporate the new flavors of Americans who come and settle here and contribute to the traditions of our country. It is an organic, evolving thing.
Q: You start this program with El Paso and Juarez, opening with the border patrol helicopters overhead. How did you select locations for the series?
We had a longer list of about 14 or 15 places. We wanted to canvass the country, crisscross it and make sure we were getting a good crosssection of immigrants. We wanted to give a nod to immigrants who have been here a long time, like German and Chinese immigrants and … newer immigrants.
Q: You drove around Milwaukee in the Oscar Mayer Wienermobile, and one of the things that you talk about is quintessential American food and assimilation. How does Milwaukee fit into the nation’s food history?
A: I grew up in the '70s and '80s as a kid in America. There is nothing that seems more American to me than Oscar Mayer. I think it is really interesting looking at that huge industry and what he was able to achieve not only with his own company, but he is responsible for modern food processing and fridge-stable food as we know it. To me, that is one of the most quintessential American institutions brought by an immigrant. Also, there is nothing more American than beer to me, and Milwaukee is beer. … I wanted to talk about how America has a way, for good and bad, of appropriating these influences.
Q: What made this the time for you to do this show? What is the thing you want people to take away from the programs?
I want people to take way the notion that immigration is not a bad thing. It is not a threatening force to American culture or way of life. It is the very thing that builds and refreshes American culture and pop culture. It is the reason for America's prowess in the world.
The last three years we've heard a lot of rhetoric out of Washington vilifying immigrants. It is what made me be politically active with the ACLU (as an artist ambassador). I wanted to tell a different story, the actual story of people, hardworking Americans, whether German immigrants in Milwaukee or Thai immigrants in Vegas, and how they're no different than your grandmother or Trump's grandfather who came here. That was the point of the series for me, to maybe make it easier and more familiar to reach out to their neighbors …
I needed to make it more approachable, and that has been my function in whatever project I have done. I have tried to be an interpreter or go between to make things that seem foreign to be more approachable, even on Top Chef.
Q: What surprised you most during your visits and taping this show?
My first day at work was doing the very serious interview with a gentleman for the Persian episode in Los Angeles. What surprised me and intimidated me at first was having to interview people and embed myself in their community, and whether they would trust me. I am not a journalist. I don't usually interview people. I'm usually being interviewed.
I've interviewed three people: Madhur Jaffrey, Rene Redzepi and Nathan Myhrvold.
I had to adapt to the personalities and willingness of each of the guests. I was worried I would not get to the deeper stuff. I am going into people's homes, and I was respectful of that, but I have to get the bigger stuff not just “Is parsley better than cilantro?” This was serious stuff I had to do. I was very intimidated. I didn't want to do just another show that was light and superficial. I didn't want to do another travel food show. I've done that. I wanted this to be deeper.
Q: How does this project differ from your previous work?
Top Chef is very formatted. My role there is a very specific one. … This show is from my heart. This is the first show I have done from an idea in my head from start to finish behind the camera and in front of the camera. It is the most gratifying experience professionally. It is a love letter to all of the immigrants in this country who have worked to build this country.
Table Chat features interviews with Wisconsinites, or Wisconsin natives, who work in restaurants or support the restaurant industry; or visiting chefs. To suggest individuals to profile, email psullivan@gannett.com