Superior berry?
“I love these berries fresh right off the cane, taken home with cream poured over them, made into a shrub to mix in cocktails, put up as jam, frozen for later. One of my very favorite pairings is to make a chipotle black raspberry sauce that absolutely sings on venison steak.”
A black berry, not blackberry
Wisconsin lies about geographically center in the black raspberry universe, according to a map at the USDA. Known by their scientific name Rubus occidentalis, black raspberries may be found wild in most U.S. states east of the Rocky Mountains, then north into Canada.
Blackcaps, which are highly palatable to both humans and wildlife, are different from blackberries. Blackberries are solid berries. In contrast, black raspberries are hollow like red raspberries, and smaller than blackberries.
Many prefer black raspberries for their firmer texture and smaller seeds over blackberries. Some say blackcaps hit the sweet spot between earthiness and brightness.
Blackcap fruits start off green, then turn red before ripening to a very dark purple or black when they are easily plucked off the cane.
“Don’t confuse them with blackberries!” said Terese Allen, a Wisconsin food author and co-author of “The Flavor of Wisconsin: An Informal History of Food and Eating in the Badger State” (2009, Wisconsin Historical Society). “They’re sweeter and juicier than blackberries (which are larger and have a white core) and more intensely flavored than red or white raspberries. Pick the darkest ones — they’re the ripest and sweetest.”
As for health benefits, black raspberries seem to be way ahead of the berry pack in possessing superior anti-aging and disease-prevention properties.
“In a 2002 study comparing five types of cane berries (evergreen blackberries, marionberries, boysenberries, red raspberries and black raspberries), black raspberries were shown to have the highest oxygen radical absorbance capacity, meaning they can absorb a high amount of oxygen-free radicals that are known to damage DNA, cause premature mental aging and other damage to our cells,” said Amy Giffin of Cedar Grove, a registered dietitian at Advocate Aurora Healthcare and past president of the Wisconsin Academy of Nutrition and Dietetics.
Most berries are nutritionally similar, however black raspberries have a higher concentration of polyphenols, micronutrients that we obtain through certain plant-based foods, she explained.
“Specifically, they are high in anthocyanins, which gives the black raspberry its rich color. Anthrocyanins are flavonoid compounds that are responsible for the colors, red, purple and blue in fruits and vegetables.” Giffin said these compounds help protect against some diseases.
“Anthocyanins possess anti-diabetic, anti-cancer, anti-inflammatory, antimicrobial and anti-obesity effects, as well as aid in the prevention of cardiovascular diseases,” she said.
Blackcaps are a good source of numerous vitamins, minerals and fiber. “A cup of fresh berries also provides over a third of most adults’ recommended dietary allowance of vitamin C . . . another powerful antioxidant,” Giffin said. “Black raspberries are also relatively low in calories, approximately 70 calories per cup of fresh berries.”
Gorging allowed
At the retail level in grocery stores, black raspberries may be tough to find. By the end of June, Sendik’s Fine Foods, 18985 W. Capitol Drive in Brookfield, was still looking to find a supplier, according to produce manager Tom Wendling. “They are extremely seasonal with a short window of early July through early August,” he said. “Most of the product is wild harvest as opposed to cultivated.”
Farmers markets, U-picks or farm stands may be better sources. Author Allen said black raspberries are a rare treat with an old-fashioned appeal because they are typically available only at farm markets or obtained through a friend who has a patch.
In southeastern Wisconsin, Jelli’s Market at N5648 S. Farmington Road, near Helenville, will sell freshly picked black raspberries by mid-July, according to Jody Knoebel of Jelli’s.
In central Wisconsin, the owner of Lakeview Berry Farm near Mosinee, 203121 Bergen Road, believes it is the largest farm in the state that sells cultivated black raspberries. They also sell red, gold and purple raspberries as well as currants, blueberries and gooseberries in U-pick, pre-picked and frozen options.
“Black raspberries are hands down the healthiest there is,” said Dennis Lewer, who owns the family farm with his wife, Frances. Growing raspberries for over 60 years, Lewer said the black variety is the preferred choice once pickers become accustomed to the assorted colors.
Black raspberries are also appreciably heavier in weight than other raspberries due to all the minerals they contain, Lewer said. Lakeview Berry Farm dedicates eight acres to three cultivars of black raspberries, which extend their growing season for a full month. Lewer said adequate rainfall has fallen in 2020, so they should be available this month.
The three varieties they grow are Niwot, Jewel and Mac Black. Cultivars produce larger berries than the wild blackcaps, Lewer said. He called black raspberries the best-kept secret in the state. Some pickers come and spend most of their time directly eating in a raspberry frenzy.
“They sit down and they just gorge themselves,” he said.
Wisconsin Berry & Vegetable Growers Association is a helpful online source to find other berry farms.
Walk on the wild berry side
Wild foraging is a good option for motivated blackcap lovers. Allen said the berries are most closely associated with the “wild side of Wisconsin” found by searching near woods or discovering them along a country road.
“It’s a kind of memory food, a connection to Wisconsin’s natural bounty and to earlier, maybe better times,” she said. “Living in the north, Wisconsinites have a get-it-while-you-can attitude that adds to that ‘rare treat’ feeling about black raspberries. Plus our frugal Midwestern nature loves that it’s free food.”
Like other raspberries, blackcaps are highly perishable and have about a three week season. Foraging is additionally time sensitive as there is competition from birds and mammals for the sweet berries. One forager from Lake Mills recommends walking in nature as the best way to spot them.
“My main advice for finding blackcaps is simply to go for a walk, they are everywhere along the Wisconsin trail systems,” said Zach Vanselow, an avid outdoorsman. He said he’s traditionally foraged alone, but “these past years I’ve been getting my 7-year-old son out with me to learn about the plants along the trail.”
Vanselow likes to mix the blackcaps with wild mulberries and gooseberries to bake into a fresh berry cobbler this time of year.
Black raspberry plants are recognizable even in winter when the reddishpurple canes stand out against the snow. In late spring, their arching canes fill with white blossoms that cascade in a bridal wreath spirea fashion. In summer, the canes will often contain both red and black raspberries, but only the blacks are ripe for picking.
Just don’t let their pretty appearance fool you. Wild blackcap picking isn’t for sissies, as the plants possess formidable thorns. Foragers may need to contend with mosquitoes, ticks or snakes. Plus blackcaps ripen during the hottest time of the year and, unfortunately, shorts and sandals are not appropriate garb in a briar patch.
Foraging expert Gavin of Eagle Outdoor Skills offered some advice. “When harvesting, I either wear my hunting chaps or accept scratched legs as a worthwhile price for admission, and a long-sleeved, light-colored shirt. For collection, I cut the top off a gallon-sized vinegar or milk jug (leaving the handle intact) and attach it with a carabiner to my belt so both hands are free to pick,” he said.
A gift that keeps on giving
Even though black raspberries are highly perishable, they can be easily preserved for later enjoyment. Canning as pie filling or dehydrating them into dried whole berries are good options if you have the equipment and skills. Freezing is easiest if you have the freezer space. Some recommend freezing fresh, unwashed black raspberries in a single layer on wax- or parchment paper-lined cookie sheet, then funneling into a freezer bag.
A less-complicated way is to measure out a cup of unwashed berries and directly place into a freezer bag to use later in recipes. Thawing is unnecessary if baking into muffins, pies or crisps, just give them a rinse while frozen and fold into batter. An advantage of using frozen berries is that they will not discolor the batter.
With pancakes, thaw and drain the berries first before adding to the pancakes once they set up on a hot griddle. Indulging in black raspberry pancakes on Christmas morning months after they’ve ripened may almost seem like cheating nature, but it will be a simple indulgence to savor on a snowy winter holiday. Allen said she usually harvests them from a friend’s property outside Stoughton in summer, then squirrels some away. “A couple of years ago, I picked loads of them, enough to freeze for winter usage,” she said. “What a gift!”