Heating compost can kill invasive jumping worms
Question: I have had jumping worms in my landscape for several years and don't see their numbers decreasing. I have a compost pile and noticed they devoured it last summer. My question is should I spread this compost to planting beds and annual pots? Or will this just worsen the spread of the jumping worm eggs?
Answer: Sterilize your compost before adding it to your gardens and containers. The last thing you want to do is add even more jumping worms to your landscape. Research from the UW-Madison Arboretum found that heating compost to 104 degrees kills the jumping worm cocoons overwintering in the compost pile. Make sure all parts of the compost reach this temperature to ensure you killed them all. Covering your pile with clear plastic and turning regularly will help heat up the pile.
Q: The plants I start from seeds have poor root systems compared to those I buy. What am I doing wrong? I've tried top watering, bottom watering and use grow lights 12 hours a day with heat at 75.
A: Greenhouses growing transplants we purchase at the garden center have much better growing conditions than we can create in our homes. Consider leaving the grow lights on for 14 hours each day and keeping them 4 to 6 inches above the top of the seedlings. If these are older lights it may be time to reinvest in new ones. Check with the manufacturer on the average life span of your specific grow lights. If you are using a heating mat, stop as soon as the seeds sprout and move to a slightly cooler location. Most seedlings thrive at temperatures between 65 and 72 degrees. Adjust your watering habits as needed. Water seedlings thoroughly but don’t let plants sit in excess water. This encourages deeper rooting. Use a fertilizer at the rate specified on the label to encourage healthy above- and below-ground growth.
Q: I have a miniature pear tree that is loaded with blossoms each May. Over the past couple years the fruit develops black spots, shrivels and is eventually inedible. How can I treat this?
A: It sounds like your pear tree may be suffering from several problems. Black spots on the leaves and fruit of pears are typical of the fungal disease pear scab. This disease can be controlled by cleanup of diseased leaves and fruit. Applications of fungicides early in the season can further help reduce the risk of this disease. Pear scab alone doesn’t typically cause all the symptoms you described. Plum curculio feeding can cause deformities and some deterioration of the fruit. Collect and destroy or bury infected fruit as soon as it falls to the ground. You must bury it at least 2 to 3 feet deep to prevent the insects from tunneling their way to the surface.
See the Univeristy of Wisconsin Extension Publication A2072 Growing Pears in Wisconsin at bit.ly/3puJSpV for more detailed information.
Post questions at melindamyers. com, or write P.O. Box 798, Mukwonago, WI 53149