Allegations of an illegal caviar scheme shocked the state. Here’s a primer on the prized delicacy
Caviar has suddenly become a hot news item in Wisconsin, but not for the best of reasons.
To understand some of the legal fuss over allegations that Wisconsin Department of Natural Resources employees illegally funneled Wisconsin lake sturgeon eggs to a network of caviar processors, you need to understand the cost and scarcity of the highly prized delicacy.
Most people enjoy caviar, the highly prized eggs of fresh and saltwater sturgeon, without breaking laws because it can be bought legally, albeit at prices that can top $800 an ounce.
If steak were priced like caviar, the cheapest cut would cost about $800 per pound. Want a nice 12-ounce strip steak or other prime cut? That’d be $10,000 — not that caviar is consumed in those quantities.
For those curious about caviar, there’s no need to drop hundreds of dollars, but you should still budget at least $50 and be prepared to do a little research before buying a jar. Here’s a primer to get you started.
What is caviar?
It’s the salted roe of sturgeon, roe being the unfertilized eggs.
Roe from other fish species like salmon, trout and Great Lakes whitefish can be processed in the same manner as sturgeon but aren’t considered true caviar.
Paddlefish roe is borderline caviar. A close sturgeon cousin, paddlefish produce roe that resembles caviar in size and color. Kolikof Caviar & Gourmet‘s website describes it as a “perfect introductory caviar.”
Where does caviar come from?
That depends on the sturgeon. Hackleback (sometimes called shovelnose) sturgeon are found throughout the Mississippi and Missouri river system.
Historically, the Caspian Sea, Black Sea and surrounding region was home to the sturgeon producing the most sought-after caviars like beluga, osetra and sevruga. Near the end of the 19th century, America became the world caviar leader.
Eventually, overfishing and increased water pollution decimated sturgeon populations. Worldwide numbers haven’t recovered despite conservation efforts and restrictions on sales of caviar from wild caught sturgeon.
Today, most caviar comes from aquafarms. One-third of all caviar, according to a Business Insider article, comes from sturgeon-farming companies in China.
Why is it expensive?
Even with more aquafarm-supplied caviar, the nature of sturgeon and labor intensive work involved keep prices solidly in the special-occasions category for most budgets.
First it takes three to five years before sturgeon can be individually scanned to separate males and females.
Depending on the species, it takes eight to 20 years for female sturgeon to reach reproductive maturity. It’s not exact science to know when a sturgeon is filled with roe, so the fish are monitored on a regular basis after they reach maturity.
Sturgeon are slaughtered, then the roe sacks (most fish have two) are removed immediately to prevent a postmortem chemical from harming the eggs. The rest of the fish is set aside to be harvested for meat, skin and useful byproducts.
Roe sacks are cleaned and rubbed on a mesh screen to separate eggs from the membrane. The harvested eggs are washed, filtered, drained, salt-cured and graded.
Furthermore, caviar is finicky. To achieve the best tasting experience it needs to be kept between 34 and 38 degrees Fahrenheit. An unopened tin properly stored in the fridge is good for up to two weeks. Keep in mind, caviar gets saltier as it ages. Caviar isn’t a freezable food, so buying in bulk isn’t an option.
Finally there’s the scarcity factor. Widely available caviar sells in the range of $50 to $75 per ounce. Anything less expensive is most likely salted roe from a fish not named sturgeon.
A caviar’s rarity drives the price higher.
Imports of beluga caviar from wild caught sturgeon have been banned in the United States since 2005, and only one sturgeon farm in the United States, Sturgeon AquaFarms in Bascom, Florida,
is permitted to raise beluga sturgeon.
Purebred beluga caviar from the Florida farm in Florida sells for $830 per ounce. It’s sold out.
Making the grade
A caviar’s grade, not price, is a better indicator of quality. Size, texture, flavor and finish are the primary considerations in grading caviar, with consideration given to color.
Grade 1 caviar consists of the firmest, largest, most intact eggs with best color and flavor.
Grade 2 caviar is deemed delicate with less perfectly formed eggs.
What does caviar taste like?
Scrambled eggs don’t taste like chicken; caviar doesn’t taste like sturgeon. Though, a mild fishiness may be present.
It will be salty, but how salty depends on the type of caviar.
A good caviar experience is a balance of texture and flavor. Beads roll and slide across the tongue and roof of the mouth. Eggs should be distinct and separate, with minimal to no mushiness.
When bitten, the beads should pop releasing more flavor that’s often described as buttery or nutty.
Afterward, a lingering velvety smoothness should remain on the tongue. Some caviars finish lighter and cleaner, leaving the mouth and nostrils clear, while others finish heavier and coat the palate, leaving more prominent flavors and aromas.
Beyond these general tasting notes for caviar, each variety has a distinct flavor profile. Caviar sellers include detailed flavor descriptions for each product.
How it’s commonly served
Take the caviar out of the refrigerator about 15 minutes before serving. Then open just before eating.
Metal spoons are universally decried by experts as the devil when it comes to eating caviar. The spoon’s metallic-ness alters the caviar flavor. Those with a mother of pearl spoon handy are in luck, as this is most cited as the best option. Wooden and plastic spoons are deemed acceptable.
If eating straight from the canister in half-teaspoonful increments, an ounce will provide about eight bites.
Bland crackers or toast, blini (small pancakes made from buckwheat flour) and sour cream are common accompaniments.
For refreshments: ice cold vodka and, you guessed it, Champagne.