Milwaukee Journal Sentinel

From Georgia or Wisconsin, peaches provide a season of sweetness

- May Klisch

All around local farmers markets now are truckloads of peaches, many touting the best and sweetest from Georgia. To be fair, peaches are also widely grown in California, South Carolina and New Jersey. Dig a little deeper and you’ll also find where you’ll find the hardier varieties.

However, the peach actually originated from China, dating back 4,000 years; it was first domesticat­ed and cultivated there 2,500 years ago, according to Clemson University researcher­s. Evidence of the desirabili­ty of the peach can be found in the ancient Chinese scroll paintings sporting “tao zi” (the peach, and the peach tree). China currently has 3 million acres dedicated to peach growing, of which 80% of its mostly “white peaches” are eaten fresh, or processed into peach juice and tea drinks, peach beer, peach jelly and peach candy.

But here in the heartland, luscious peaches can be found in our own hinterland.

Although we’re all used to enjoying peaches fresh or in desserts, I’m noticing a trend toward including them in savory dishes. My first encounter with this was at a Chinese restaurant in Canada when sweetened peaches were mingled with deep fried shrimp in an ambrosial cream sauce.

Lately, in cooking shows and magazines or online, I’ve noted that peaches aren’t just toppings on salads but also integrated wholly into meats and poultry. Peaches are featured in sauces like marinara, salsa and chili sauces, for marinades or for basting a roast chicken, for instance. They grace curried chicken salads, top savory bruschetta­s, and are diced into guacamole. They’ll peek out in chicken and cheese sandwiches; moisten baked pork tenderloin; or flavor a gazpacho. They’ll slide in a kebab with shrimp, or add juiciness to turkey burgers. You’ll even find them on savory tarts and pizzas.

Peaches have a distinctiv­e flavor, but they don’t dominate the whole dish. Some peaches are more tart, but even as they’re tangy sometimes, they’re not astringent, so they make good companions to meats, vegetables and starches.

Today, I thought I’d give my dish a double-peach treatment: first in the marinade of pork ribs, which are cooked until tender by either slow steam-roasting (or using the Instapot pressure cooker); then pulled to make a taco with more fresh peachy goodness.

I love that this can be made well ahead — even frozen till needed; then fresh peaches are introduced when ready to serve. If you make extra, you can freeze the sauce and baste other meats and vegetables with it later. There’s more than one way to extend the peach season when you can find this luscious stone fruit in abundance.

 ?? JULIA MARTINS DE SA / MILWAUKEE JOURNAL SENTINEL ?? Anna Schapekahm restocks peaches at Sendik’s Food Market at the Corners of Brookfield on July 7. The seasonal produce is turning up in more and more varied dishes.
JULIA MARTINS DE SA / MILWAUKEE JOURNAL SENTINEL Anna Schapekahm restocks peaches at Sendik’s Food Market at the Corners of Brookfield on July 7. The seasonal produce is turning up in more and more varied dishes.

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