Milwaukee Journal Sentinel

Pop-up focuses on Texas-style barbecue

Trip to Austin inspires birth of Sweet Smoke

- Carol Deptolla

A chance meal at the famed Franklin Barbecue in Austin, Texas, a decade ago ultimately led to the new Milwaukee pop-up Sweet Smoke Barbecue.

Sweet Smoke makes Texas-style beef brisket plus pulled pork, turkey and ribs, sides, sandwiches and occasional specials like barbacoa tacos and pork belly. It can be found most weekends at Enlightene­d Brewing Co., 2020 S. Allis St., from noon to 4 p.m. or until sold out.

And it will pop up at Ray’s Wine and Spirits, 8930 W. North Ave., Wauwatosa, from 4:30 until 8 p.m. or until the barbecue is sold out July 6, July 20 and July 27. (Sweet Smoke posts its schedule on Instagram.)

Adam Beilke, who operates Sweet Smoke with his wife, Cindi, went to Austin about 10 years ago to meet up with friends, one of whom said they should eat at Franklin.

“He mentioned getting there and waiting in line at 8 a.m., which I thought was absurd, since they don’t open until 11,” Beilke said.

Once Beilke tried it, he saw the light. “I couldn’t believe barbecue could taste like that, and I just became obsessed with re-creating it at home,” he said.

He began dialing in his barbecue and, more recently, cooking more in general during the pandemic, as he worked from home.

In April, he left his job as the chief financial officer for a travel company to operate Sweet Smoke full time. His wife left her career in teaching.

“We’re here for the long haul,” he said.

Cindi Beilke makes the sides. In summer that might be cucumber salad or Mexican street corn. Corn muffins, potato salad or baked beans are other typical sides.

Meats are sold by the half-pound or pound; brisket, for example, is $28 a pound, $14 a half-pound. They’ll be served on a platter with slices of white bread, sliced pickle, pickled red onion and the house barbecue sauce, with a mustardy note to it.

Sweet Smoke also serves pulled pork, turkey and chopped or sliced brisket sandwiches ($10 to $12).

Once new equipment arrives, he’ll resume making smash burgers and Texas-style hot links.

Sweet Smoke also is lining up catering jobs.

Meanwhile, Sweet Smoke has the appearance­s at Ray’s and most weekends at Enlightene­d, which is in former industrial space that belonged to the Louis Allis Co.

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