Reel Time
Six restaurants that deliver on
the promise of a good fry.
LAKEFRONT BREWERY BEER HALL
Three years ago, Lakefront took over the kitchen from an outside vendor, and while the fry was popular before, the quality of the fare didn’t hit its stride until the switchover. The plump, tender cod – encased in a batter made with Lakefront’s Eastside Dark beer – is just terrific. A close second is the breaded (fried whole) smelt, served, traditionally, with cocktail sauce. This is not my favorite venue for perch, although the panko-crusted fish are a local product – raised aquaponically at Milwaukee’s Growing Power. The smelt is simply the perch’s superior – tender, with a subtle fish (not fishy) flavor. The fry comes with one side: for instance, tangy red cabbage (which reminds me texturally of pickled beets) and crispy (though greasy) potato pancakes with chunky, nicely spiced applesauce. There’s even kraut and German potato salad. Note: The seating is family-style, at long farm tables. Live music? Part of the charm! The Brewhaus Polka Kings perform every Friday, 5:30-8:30 p.m. $11-$15. Hours: Friday 4-9 p.m. Also served on Wednesday during Lent. 1872 N. Commerce St., 414-292-0808; lakefront brewery.com
ERV’S MUG
Craft beer devotees keep the taps active at this busy suburban bar that also gives its deep-fryer a serious workout. Beer-battered cod is the specialty. The fillets are golden-crisp, the flesh almost creamy and the coating remarkably non-greasy. The thick, not-too-pickly tartar is a must with the fish, as are the crisp, thick, oniony potato pancakes. The slaw is just your standard cabbage-carrot-mayo rendition. Looking to try something different with your fry? Order the apple-pecan baked beans – thick, sweet, nutty and a welcome substitute for the common side offerings. $12-$18. Wednesday and Friday, 11 a.m.-9 p.m. 130 W. Ryan Rd., Oak Creek, 414762-5010; ervsmug.com
FRITZ’S PUB
One of the city’s most unassuming bars, with its dropped ceiling, stained-glass-shaded lamps, vinyl-covered bar chairs and a kitchen staff that fires up the stove two days a week – to serve Serbian dishes like burek and a tremendous fish fry only on Fridays. Fritz’s, which opened in 1978 (a year when TV’s “The Love Boat” was a must-watch), has kept its fry focus laser-sharp. The battered haddock (sometimes cod) is crisp on the outside, pillowy on the inside. It’s served with well-seasoned, delectably browned (and crusty) potato wedges; a slice of dense, moist baked-rightthere caraway rye bread; a nice tangy tartar sauce; and one of the best slaws in
the city – finely chopped, well-drained cabbage in a thick, sweet-citrusy sauce. Carry-outs are available, but this place can get slammed on Lenten Fridays. $8.95-$10.95. 3086 S. 20th St., 414-643-6995; fritzspub.com
WEGNER’S ST. MARTINS INN
A modest bar with a racecar theme seemingly in the middle of nowhere - that describes Wegner’s, situated in a country-ish former hamlet in the Town of Franklin. For fish lovers, Wegner’s is much more than a dive in the sticks. Its crisp breaded lake perch – flaky, tender and fresh tasting – is some of the best fried fish to be had. Chef/owner Dennis Wegner (whose background includes the kitchens of Mader’s and the late Grenadier’s) has been cooking for more than 45 years, impressive in any industry. Wegner’s beer-battered Icelandic haddock is a bit oily and heavy, but some of their sides are very solid: crispy-thin seasoned French fries, tangy slaw and a slice of buttered marble rye bread. $10.50-$16.50. Friday 11:30 a.m.-2 p.m., 4-9:30 p.m. 11318 W. St. Martins Rd., Franklin, 414-425-9971; stmartinsinn.com
KEGEL’S INN
Consider the gorgeous murals, leaded glass and wooden beams additional side dishes to this top-tier perch fry. Notice I say perch - lightly breaded Canadian lake perch. The fillets are flaky and moist, with a mild flavor. Four to six pieces of battered cod is also an option, but the perch far surpasses it in texture and flavor. As for sides, the delicate, golden potato pancakes should be your top choice.
The cabbage-carrot coleslaw is a tad wet for my taste, but I like the cup-of-soup inclusion to the meal, especially when you come in for lunch and it’s the splendid tomato-based Manhattan clam chowder. On Friday evenings, Kegel’s adds bluegill and walleye (both mild, freshwater fish) to the mix. Friday 11 a.m.-2 p.m.; 4-10 p.m. $11.50-$15.50. 5901 W. National Ave., West Allis, 414257-9999; kegelsinn.com
STONERIDGE INN
Better known as Diamond Jim’s Stoneridge Inn, the country-themed supper club received its more simplified moniker when new owners took over in early 2015. Stoneridge serves a fry six days a week, but the perch is available only on Fridays. Both the thick, beer-battered cod and delicate, breaded perch are tender and not terribly greasy, and worth ordering as a combo. Drizzle with plenty of fresh lemon. The lackluster potato pancakes are thick, slightly oval patties, but the seasoned fries are crisp, flavorful and addictive. The coleslaw is very creamy – good for dipping your fish into in place of the thinnish tartar. And there’s bread – fresh and soft. $11.95-$24.95. 11811 W. Janesville Rd., Hales Corners, 414-425-7777; stoneridgeinn halescorners.com