Monterey Herald

Seasonal rose care in local gardens

- Tom Karwin can be reached at gardening@ karwin.com

A recent column featured the genus Rosa, one of the most popular garden plants. This week, we'll look at a few of the roses in bloom in my garden, and touch upon seasonal rose care.

The classic beauty of rose blossoms, plus the diversity of the plants available from garden centers and mail-order sources (especially during the bare-root season) warrants the enduring popularity of the genus.

There are more roses than I could include in the limited space of this column. A wide view of the rose bed would show more plants, but only at a frustratin­g distance.

Encouragin­g new rose blooms

When a bloom fades, cut the cane about a one-quarter-inch inch above the first five-leaf junction with the cane. If the stem seems weak or not wellplaced, make your cut above the next five-leaf junction. New blooms will appear in a few weeks, depending on local conditions.

Another approach, a favorite of some gardeners, is to snap off the old spent bloom with your fingers.

Creating new rose bushes

A friend would like to add Rosa `Polka' to her garden but hasn't found a source to buy this plant. The alternativ­e: propagate a softwood cutting of this rose, which is already growing in my garden. Right now — late spring to early summer — is the ideal time to make a cutting. Here's the basic method.

Select a flexible new, pencil-size stem with a withered bloom. Cut the stem to at least 8 inches long, with four or more leaf nodes. Remove the bloom and the stem tip. Retain the top leaf and remove all the other leaves. Prepare the planting area, either a spot in the garden or a container with planting mix at least 6 inches deep. In either case, provide bright indirect light.

Insert the cutting into the soil with at least the bottom two nodes covered, and firm the soil

around the cutting. Option: dip the bottom of the cutting into rooting hormone.

Keep the soil moist, but not soggy for up to two weeks while the cutting develops roots. Option: provide a light dose of rose fertilizer. Once the plant has establishe­d roots and shown new growth, transplant it to its new garden home.

Advance your knowledge

In addition to the internet's continuing cornucopia of garden ideas and advice, we have occasional access to unusual events. Here's a special event that appeals to gardeners interested in American history.

The Mount Vernon Ladies Associatio­n is holding an online symposium, “Gardens and Landscapes in the Age of George Washington and Now,” on June 3—5. This feebased event includes 10 online lectures that can be viewed during or after the symposium. For example, one talk will discuss America's oldest landscaped gardens. For a list of the talks and registrati­on informatio­n, visit tinyurl.com/2p9es7uc.

Enrich gardening days

Rabbits are enjoying another friend's plants. They are most likely Eastern Cottontail­s (Sylvilagus floridanus), North America's most common rabbit species. They forage during twilight and nighttime hours and do not range far from their nests.

There are several ways to discourage Cottontail­s from eating your plants: growing plants they dislike, spreading fragrances they dislike, and removing vegetation they might hide under.

The best defense is a 4-foot-high, 6-inches-deep, chicken-wire fence, which is probably not high on your aesthetic priorities. If you could determine their access to your garden, you might block that access with a small, well-placed fence.

Trapping and poisoning are inhumane—and generally illegal—choices.

The Old Farmer's Almanac provides an exceptiona­lly good online resource, including deterrents. Visit www.almanac.com/pest/rabbits.

Rabbits are not the only garden foragers. Some insects, several mammals, and even a few birds will feed on your plants. Gophers are my garden's current visitors.

We share our plants with other gardeners, and we could share a few with the wildlife as well.

Enjoy your garden!

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