New Haven Register (New Haven, CT)
Downtown New Haven’s spot for classic French cuisine with a twist
If you’re looking for a taste of Paris in New Haven County, you are certain to find it at the Union League Café (ULC). Readers of the New Haven Register recently voted for their favorite restaurants as part of the publication’s “Best of New Haven” section, which published on Sunday, March 18, and New Haven’s ULC garnered votes as one of the top three restaurants in two different categories.
“Best French Restaurant” First, ULC, an authentic
French brasserie located on Chapel Street in Downtown
New Haven, was selected by our readers as one of the topchoice destinations for French restaurants, in the category of Ethnic Cuisine. Christina FitzGerald, the restaurant’s director of sales & marketing, defines French brasserie as “a lively setting, a place to be casual but with extremely professional service and a menu inspired by the highest quality ingredients, preparation and presentation.” With an impressive and experienced team, ULC has “won an unprecedented 114 Best Restaurant awards.” FitzGerald delves into the fascinating history of the restaurant as she explains how this eatery began.
“(The restaurant’s) history really started in 1987 when
Chef Jean Pierre Vuillermet was asked by renowned Connecticut restaurateur Jo McKenzie to relocate to New Haven as a chef of her new restaurant, Robert Henry’s. After Mrs. McKenzie decided to retire, Jean Pierre and his wife, Robin McKenzie Vuillermet ( Jo’s daughter), opened Union League Café at the same location in 1993. This was the realization of a dream they had to create the kind of authentic brasserie experience they enjoyed so much in
France.”
Besides FitzGerald, who handles special events and is on both the Connecticut Restaurant Association’s Board of Directors and the Board of Directors for the Greater New Haven Chamber of Commerce, executive chef Guillaume Traversaz and general manager/ sommelier Romain Turpault round out the notable team.
FitzGerald explains that “Executive Chef Guillaume Traversaz joined ULC in 2012 and, after a short journey to Australia and England in 2013, returned to lead the kitchen in 2017. Chef Guillaume’s experience in award-winning restaurants in France, England, and Australia honed his passions and inspired his philosophy about cooking: Focus on quality, inspire teamwork, and surpass expectations.
A 4th generation chef from France, he shares a history with ULC founder and mentor, Jean Pierre Vuillermet, whose parents also ran a hotel/ restaurant in the same village. GM/Sommelier Turpault “hails from Mulhouse, France where his passion for the hospitality industry led to a diploma in Economics and in Culinary Arts/Service Management. In 2014, he was inspired to broaden his experience— completing a sommelier diploma in Bordeaux and then managing Angelina at the Palace of Versailles before coming back to ULC in 2017.” With such an impressive team, it is no wonder that Union League made the list of best French restaurants.
“Best Place for a Romantic Dinner”
Readers also voted for Union League Café in the category of “Best Place for a Romantic Dinner.” The restaurant is located in the historic Roger Sherman house site, which is part of its allure, according to Turpault.
“The building since 1902 has been refurbished and an addition was done. The main dining room has been designed following the Beaux-Arts time and a fireplace is central,” he said.
Stained glass, marble, and lots of wood enhance the ambiance. “There is a certain feel that can make it kind of cozy and romantic,” Turpault observed.
Fine dining in a welcoming environment is what you can expect. Here you enjoy French food among some classic dishes but “definitely with a twist from a younger chef, Guillaume Traversaz. You’ll find that some of our dishes are more Americanized in a way but they definitely represent French cuisine,” Turpault said.
Local flavors enhance the menu, he noted: “Lobster is an example because we are in New England.” Duck confit, where the meat comes so tender it shreds and easily pulls away from the bone, is a popular menu item, according to Turpault: “This lighter version, which is not crispy like the classic with lentils, comes with watercress and apples.”
In July 2019 ULC expanded to include La Terrasse, an open-air café located in Sherman Alley, adjacent to ULC. Here, seated under the stars, friends can gather for drinks and dinner.
For more information, visit unionleaguecafe.com.