Wooster Square was a total community

There are many people who consider Wooster Street to be the embodiment of Wooster Square and, to a certain degree, that may be true. At one time, it was filled with activity — families who lived in the multifamily buildings, all the small stores that lined the streetlevel entrances, and, of course, the burgeoning business of creating, perfecting and selling New Haven apizza.

But Wooster Square was more expansive. It spread from Grand Avenue to Water Street, and East Street to Olive Street. It encompassed a large area with a mostly Italian immigrant population. Perhaps no other neighborhood in the city had ever housed such a large, homogeneous gathering of arrivals who came here to find the dream of America and found it in Wooster Square.

The sheer force of that gathering resulted in the development of a minisociety in which the residents strove to be selfsufficient while isolating and protecting themselves against the common prejudices of the time. This all served to remind everyone that, if they were to succeed, they would have to work hard, live together harmoniously, be conscientious about adopting the new social expectations, and understand that everything needed to be earned.

Yet they managed to maintain a strong connection to those things that were embedded into their own rich cultural and ethnic traditions. That was accomplished by developing a dual system that included an American yet Italian way of life. In the neighborhood, people could speak the language and use the familiar and friendly colloquialisms that they were fond of, but at work or in school or when shopping downtown, they needed to try to fit in as much as possible.

Residents were able to enjoy a familiar lifestyle because of the special shops scattered throughout the neighborhood. The many small markets offered food-related items that allowed customers to cook the familiar foods that they loved. Sometimes they were imported from Italy, such as olive oil and canned tomatoes, but after a short time local entrepreneurs began to produce local versions, such as macaroni and the crusty bread that was a staple in every town and village in Campania.

Local farmers were able to produce crops of dandelion greens and escarole, so prized by home cooks, and even finocchio or fennel and cavolo verzo or Savoy cabbage could be purchased. Other warm climate goods were imported from California and Florida, so that figs and prickly pears, pomegranates and persimmons could be enjoyed in season.

And local cheese mongers began to produce ricotta and mozzarella and all of the related cheeses that are so integral to the Italian cucina. My uncle Joe Prodigo began making cheese on Wooster Street in the thirties. It was really wonderful, carrying on a trade that he learned in Pontone, outside of Amalfi.

All of these foods that are now so universally enjoyed were virtually unknown to non-Italians at that time.

There was a plethora of dry goods stores, scattered throughout, catering to those seeking simple clothing or linens. A housewife would find the cotton dresses that were generally worn in the house and the ever-present aprons, which were easily washed. Underwear and socks, shirts and work clothes were available. You might also purchase a tablecloth for a special occasion, or serviceable sheets and towels to add to the hope chest for a daughter of marriageable age.

The deep black clothing that was worn during the one-year period of mourning as a sign of respect after the death of a close relative was also available. Women would wear black dresses and stockings and men wore black ties. It wasn’t uncommon for a widow to wear black for the rest of her life. These everyday items were purchased locally, with downtown shopping being reserved for special purchases. These shops very often were run by women or families in a venue close to home.

The approach of Easter was usually announced by the appearance of cured meats in the stores and butcher shops. These meats were important ingredients in the classic Easter delicacy, pizza chiena or pizza rustica, which graced every table on Easter Sunday. Everything that was denied during Lent was included in this delicious pie or torte. The double-crusted pie was filled with cured meats, sausages, cheeses, eggs, and other ingredients specific to a family recipe. Nothing is more evocative of the holiday than this simple but elegant melange of everything Italian.

Palm Sunday was a special event in the midst of Lent. We all looked forward to the blessed palm fronds that were distributed at all the Masses and kept in the home. Everyone followed the Italian custom of exchanging palm with family members, and children were very often given a coin in return. The exchange of palm was a powerful reminder of the family connection and the respect that was evidenced through this gesture.

The week leading to Easter, Holy Week, was filled with religious ceremonies. All the religious statues in the church were draped in purple so as not to distract from the solemnity of the services. The most widely attended event was the visitation of the churches on Holy Thursday, where special altars were erected to display the Blessed Sacrament. The custom was to visit three churches to pray at these altars.

For us, in our end of Wooster Square, St. Michael, St. Louis and St. Casimir were our three.

The streets were alive with neighbors making their way from one to the other. It created a sense of solidarity and community, and connection to our common heritage. Everyone respected Good Friday as a day of reflection, and children were expected to maintain a quiet demeanor throughout the day.

Easter Sunday was the culmination with crowds attending the many Masses at St. Michael, with children relegated to the basement chapel so as to make room for adults in the main sanctuary.

The festive dinner brought family together and always ended with sweet pies from the bakery, cream and grain or wheat berry, la pastiera, or pizza di grano, a tradition that dates back to the Romans, were the most traditional, with a casatella for the children, a circle of sponge, frosted and covered with sprinkles and candy, with a marzipan lamb in the center.

Everything was familyoriented, everything was simple yet rich with tradition.