Moscow in midtown
Brasserie Pushkin opens near the Russian Tea Room
There is apparently room for not one, but two Russian palaces on W. 57th St. The new Brasserie Pushkin, which has taken over a three-tiered space just an avenue away from the famous Russian Tea Room, opened last week to the joy of fancy suitclad midtowners, sightseeing tourists and those in search of a truly unique New York experience.
Owned and operated by Andrey Dellos, founder and owner of Russia-based restaurant firm Maison Dellos Group, the sleek venue includes two vast dining rooms and a spacious bar with an expansive vodka program. There’s no doubt this Eastern enclave will appeal to a younger, hipper set: the ambience mixes old-school glamour with a feeling of downtown chic. The mood is romantic, the seating is plush, and waiters are formally clad in black and white.
Must-try menu items from Andrey Makhov, the executive chef of Cafe Pushkin in Moscow, include sea scallop and sea trout crudo and a Colorado rack of lamb. More traditional fare is found in dishes like the borscht made with tender short ribs, blini with salmon roe, pelmeni dumplings, and beef, cabbage and mushroom and potato pirojkis.
The pastry program, displayed in a large glass case in the front of the restaurant, is whipped up by executive pastry chef Emmanuel Ryon, who is known for his macaroons. Other signature desserts include the Cafe Pushkin, a layer cake of raspberry and blueberry gelee, toasted almonds, sorbet and pistachio mousse.
The dessert display turns into a caviar, seafood and vodka bar in the evening, when the scene will likely change from buttoned-up business-heavy lunches to a younger after-work and late-night scene. To this, we say, “Chtob vse byli zdorovy,” or, more simply “Cheers.”
Brasserie Pushkin 41 W. 57th St., (212) 465-2400.