More than plain Manila
Maharlika puts a modern spin on traditional Filipino fare
Nicole Ponseca has brought the flavors of the Philippines to the East Village. Originally a traveling brunch pop-up, Maharlika Filipino Moderno has settled into a permanent location on E. Seventh St., bringing with it all the familiar fixings of a traditional Filipino restaurant.
Each table comes with a round of condiments that Ponseca says are crucial to enjoying Filipino cuisine.
“The dish isn’t finished until each guest puts their own stamp of approval on it,” she says. “That’s the Philippine way. You might like it a little saltier than I would and I might like it a little spicier than you would.”
In addition to a housemade suka — vinegar made with pressed sugarcane, garlic, ginger and chilies — there’s also banana ketchup and a kalamansi soy sauce.
“A good suka is the backbone for Philippine cooking,” explains Ponseca. “When done well, a good vinegar is like a good wine. And how do you judge a wine? Body, flavor and acidity.”
Ponseca, a former advertising exec, first came up with the idea of a modern Filipino restaurant in 1998 when clients started asking for recommendations.
But nothing was quite on par with the other eateries they dined at, so Ponseca set out to create one of her own.
In January 2011, after a decade of balancing her advertising career by day and restaurant jobs by night, Ponseca opened Maharlika — it means royalty in Tagalog — and found a permanent space in October.
The restaurant’s menu, produced by Ponseca and executive chef Miguel Trinidad, includes traditional items such as chicken adobo, considered the Philippines’ national dish, and Karekare, oxtail braised in peanut butter.
Trinidad and Ponseca spent three months hopping from island to island to ensure that their flavors were authentic, then threw dinner parties at Ponseca’s apartment to perfect service.
What makes Maharlika different from the restaurants that Ponseca grew up with on the West Coast is their emphasis on clean presentation and fresh ingredients.
“We don’t just have one-pot stews where it’s delicious, but the vegetables disintegrate and the sauce and meat are the same color,” says Ponseca. “We braise our meat, we have our own version of mother sauces and we do the vegetables à
la minute. It creates a composed plate.” Maharlika’s original brunch menu plays off of familiar American ones. Instead of Eggs Benedict, Maharlika serves eggs Benigno with pandesal (bread rolls), sliced Spam and kalamansi hollandaise.
Their take on chicken and waffles features the flourless Filipino-style fried chicken that Ponseca’s dad used to make, along with an ube (purple yam) waffle. Soon, Maharlika will be rolling out regional fare, including more vegetarian and seafood options, that Ponseca and Trinidad sampled during their travels.
“Even a dish like adobo can have so many different variations from north to south. For someone to come in and try our adobo, it can be scary. It’s a food so close to the heart,” says Ponseca. “But it’s great that we’re finally getting it out of our homes and cupboards and into the mouths of everyone else.”