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Totonno’s in Coney Island kicks off our Q-linary adventure
After months of eating along the 7 line, Queens proved to be a culinary stronghold. But the Q, running through neighborhoods like Brighton Beach and Midwood, is equally food-savvy and diverse.
Starting today, we’ll be mapping out the best restaurants near the line’s 35 stations, going from southern Brooklyn all the way up to Astoria.
Our first stop: a Coney Island establishment that’s been churning out pizzas since 1924.
Founded by Anthony Pero, a former baker at Lombardi’s, Totonno’s Pizzeria Napolitano has long been considered the city’s top pie purveyor. And it’s easy to see why. The made-to-order pizzas are baked in a coal-fired brick oven, giving the crust a smoky and crispy texture.
Topped with tangy tomato sauce, cheese and fixings of your choice, the topnotch slices have amassed a loyal following from near and far. There’s also Totonno’s signature white pie, a garlicky pizza with housemade mozzarella.
If you do stop by, arrive hungry — they don’t sell by the slice, though pies do come in small or large.
There’s nothing fancy about the Neptune Ave. shop, which is still run by Pero’s descendants. Diners eat off Styrofoam plates and drink from paper cups — but that’s part of Totonno’s old-school charm.
Grab a table, order off the lone menu board and take in the eatery’s long history as the pizzaiolo prepares your pie.
Autographed photos from celebrity admirers and local politicians line the walls and pieces of antique wood furniture serve as sparse decor.
Service is simple — pies and drinks get delivered to each table, then diners are left to enjoy the steaming slices at their leisure.
Still think there’s better pizza elsewhere? Fuhgeddaboudit.